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North Carolina Wall
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Apricot Butter T 
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Barnacles & Bo Schwan T 
Bed-wetter T 
Bumblebee Butress T 
Eureka T 
Fire On The Mountain T,S 
Horse Shoes & Hand Grenades T 
Life is like a rubber rope T 
Lost In Time T 
Pansy Wall T 
Rinky Dink Direct finish T 
Southeast arete (of the Camel) T 
Spectre Man T 
Tarantula T 

Barnacles & Bo Schwan 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Ryan Parker, Rachel Taylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 260
Submitted By: Ryan Parker on Aug 14, 2012

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Pitch One.
  • All climbing routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed from January 15 and August 15 MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Protection for the first three pitches is scarce so keep your eyes open for placements, it's not uncommon to go 30' between placements. And if you can't find the holds, scrape away the lichen that covers most of this climb.

    P1: Start with some nice 5.5 face climbing for approximately 80 feet to a small vegetated ledge for the belay.

    P2: From the small ledge the climbing here is 5.6 face climbing for about 90' feet. The belay is another obvious vegetated ledge.

    P3: The first 40'-50' of this 5.8 pitch is unprotected and protection remains scarce until with in 20' of the belay ledge. The pitch is approximately 120' feet (I placed 6 pieces, two of which were in the 20' just before the belay.)

    P4: After both climbers reach the belay after pitch 3 bushwhack for a couple minutes back to the vertical wall, the climbing here is only 5.5 and protection is no longer as hard to find as the first three pitches. Climb until you top out, about 120', and scramble up the last bit of class 3.

    Hike out on the MTS trail.


    Location 

    Take the approach down to the tarantula ledge area of NC Wall and walk as far as you can until you can't walk any further. The start is about 10-15 yards from the end of the ledge.


    Protection 

    Basic multi-pitch rack. Small cams or TCU's are helpful.



    Comments on Barnacles & Bo Schwan Add Comment
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    By Will Sweeney
    From: Bakersfield, California
    Mar 4, 2013

    You guys went somewhere other than Table Rock this day?