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Barnacle Bill 

V4

   
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Type: Boulder, 12 feet
Consensus: V4- [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: nhclimber on Sep 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

The painfully obvious crack. Start with your hands on a shelf with a heel hook by your hands and prepare for judgement day. Jam, crimp, thrutch, grovel your way across the left slanting crack till you can stand up into underclings and bring your feet up. Then finish up the far left arete. The book gives this V3, I think that it is much harder and never gets too much easier.


Location 

To the right and around the corner from lobster tail.


Protection 

pad



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 5, 2009

Barnacle Bill goes up the easy arete at the end of the crack, Charley Horse V5 is the variation that goes up the blank slab that why it feels so much harder... the blank slab is much tougher than v3 :)

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 5, 2009

Are you sure? I have always thought that the crack to the arete is barnacle bill. Start in the cave move left along the crack till you can stand up and work up the arete. The variation moves up right from the start of BB and finishes on the right hand arete. Maybe v5

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 5, 2009

That could be possible too I may have misread kemple's guide... will look into it

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 6, 2009

I looked it up looks like I misread sorry about the confusion :)

By burlap submariner
Dec 4, 2011

most def v4 and for sure barnacle bill. excellent and varied problem, I get on it every time i boulder natural.

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Sep 6, 2012

Just sent this rig for the first time the other day. Amongst my proudest boulder sends. Didn't feel as hard as it has. great problem. straight up variation from the big jug to the arete overhead isn't v5 either. v3? or easier

By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Nov 18, 2012
rating: V4

Ok it makes zero sense to me that Hobbit Hole gets a hundred attempts every weekend and this climb sits around with nobody getting on it. Too much thrutching for the general populous? I had a blast on this thing although it was an ugly affair - see for yourself (@~2:17):

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Dec 27, 2012

Eric, I think you look strong on it. Looks like you hardly jam it, only way this rig goes for me!