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Barn Door 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 268
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A little confusing which route you are on at the bottom then gets thin just before the lower angle stuff. A little gym tape would help.

Location 

Just right of Don't Disrespect The Cattle.

Protection 

Bolts.


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By Dan Cohen
May 29, 2012

This route is actually 5.11+. If the climber wandered to the neighboring 5.10-, Ranch Hands, the cumulative grade would be something in the area of 5.10. However, that would of course require climbing off route. Being that the bolts for Ranch Hands are more than my wing span apart from the bolts on Barn Door (I'm 5'10" with an ape index of 0), both routes climb different features, and they do not share any holds, this route is in no way a squeeze job.

The given grade should be adjusted accordingly, so as to prevent a climber from attempting a route a full number grade harder than expected.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 29, 2012

Hey Dan, have you climbed this route? It might be harder than 10+ but it didn't feel like it to me. I was always within reach of the bolt line except once when I found myself on the route to the right at which point I climbed back down and then climbed to the left side of the bolt line. That move was harder than any other but it wasn't 11+. One With Everything is 11+. This route is not nearly that hard. I have done a lot of Scott's plus routes and I usually think they are bagged. This is one of the few routes he bolted I thought was soft.

It is a sport route with lots of bolts so the odds of anyone getting hurt because the rating is off is minimal. We will let other posters create the consensus. In a year if it moves up I will change the grade.
By Jimbo
Jun 2, 2012

Eric,

I may be alone in this, but I think you should delete this post.
The not so subtle innuendo directed squarely at Scot is ruining my climbing experience every time I'm at the Homestead.

How can I be expected to concentrate on my next send knowing so much animosity still exists between you and Scot?

Climber after climber has come up to me, head hung low, asking why? Why so much hate? A hate that hangs over the very essence of the Homestead wilting our hearts and blackening our souls.

Please Eric stop this inhumanity so the climbers at the Homestead can begin to heal and sing out in joyous revelry. All we need is love, my friend, all we need is love.

By Hendrixson
Administrator
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

In my opinion, this route seemed distinct from its neighbors except for one or two places down low on moderate terrain where you can veer left for rests. Deciphering the crux took a while and I found no method to ease the grade. While probably my least favorite route in the Cow Town sector I still enjoyed climbing it.