Barn Door Ballet
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | K. Duncan and D. Humphrey, 2013 |
Page Views: | 1,530 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Ken Duncan on Oct 27, 2014 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc. - open since 2023
Details
Update: per Bruce Hildenbrand: the area has been open since 2023.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
This is one of the best routes at Crosier. Climb fun horizontals followed by a reachy slab on the first pitch then a beautiful lieback crack on the second.
P1. 5.10c/d: climb fun horizontals past three bolts, cross the crack and step up to a bolt. Stretch left past the fifth bolt (very height dependent) then angle right to the crack and up to the anchors. For those less than 5'9" or 10", after clipping the fifth bolt step right and ascend directly to the crack (5.11a).
P2. 5.11a/b: step left, and delicately lieback up the tips crack past three bolts. Continue up the dihedral above, then climb easily to the anchors.
Descent: do two 30 meter rappels.
P1. 5.10c/d: climb fun horizontals past three bolts, cross the crack and step up to a bolt. Stretch left past the fifth bolt (very height dependent) then angle right to the crack and up to the anchors. For those less than 5'9" or 10", after clipping the fifth bolt step right and ascend directly to the crack (5.11a).
P2. 5.11a/b: step left, and delicately lieback up the tips crack past three bolts. Continue up the dihedral above, then climb easily to the anchors.
Descent: do two 30 meter rappels.
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