Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in The East End
|
Barn Dance S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Barnie's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Dead Dog Face S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Left Lane S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Prow Left AKA Pietro Loves Iris S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Prow Right AKA Dead Dog Arete AKA Gene Machine S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Roof Burner S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Sunburst S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Thief of Wives V6 7A PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, TR |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,510 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Wehde on May 22, 2006 |
| Admins: | K Ice, Kris Gorny |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Before there were bolts, setting up a climb at Redwing was a major engineering operation involving rappels into choss and requiring hundreds of feet of webbing. This was the route we climbed at the end of the day to pull ropes off many of the other climbs. We usually climbed it in the dark with hiking boots, too worn out from laps on Barn Burner to even bother switching to climbing shoes.
It is still a fun climb, and a safe, but challenging lead for the novice 5.9 leader. The climb runs left of the bolt line on Roof Burner, climbing the left corner of the roof, moving directly up and sharing the Roof Burner bolts. At the last bolt, there is an intimidating but fairly simple (5.7) left angled upward traverse to the Barn Dance anchors. From here, you can toprope Dead Dog Face if you so desire. From the last bolt you can also move right instead to finish on the Roof Burner anchors.
Alternately you can use the bolts on Dead Dog Face, but the last bolt takes you a long way off of the Barn Dance line.
Some feel the crux is pulling the roof, others find it in the dirty pockets following the roof. In either case, the holds are there, you just have to find them...
FYI, there is an alternate finish to the Roof Burner Bolts that is longer and also probably 5.9. It seems many people are climbing that as Roof Burner, but they are not the same route.
It is still a fun climb, and a safe, but challenging lead for the novice 5.9 leader. The climb runs left of the bolt line on Roof Burner, climbing the left corner of the roof, moving directly up and sharing the Roof Burner bolts. At the last bolt, there is an intimidating but fairly simple (5.7) left angled upward traverse to the Barn Dance anchors. From here, you can toprope Dead Dog Face if you so desire. From the last bolt you can also move right instead to finish on the Roof Burner anchors.
Alternately you can use the bolts on Dead Dog Face, but the last bolt takes you a long way off of the Barn Dance line.
Some feel the crux is pulling the roof, others find it in the dirty pockets following the roof. In either case, the holds are there, you just have to find them...
FYI, there is an alternate finish to the Roof Burner Bolts that is longer and also probably 5.9. It seems many people are climbing that as Roof Burner, but they are not the same route.
- RCM&W #51, p. 126
Photos
- No Photos -
0 Comments