This route has not seen much traffic, most likely because the guide book gives little information and says that it has a one-bolt anchor (looks like it from the ground but there are two bolts). With some more traffic this route will clean up nicely (except perhaps the big ledges near the end - lots of bird poop).
I really enjoyed the variety that it offered: hand jams, stemming, offwidth (or lie-back), little chimney (with 5" crack in the back) then some fun ridge moves to finish. Stellar.
A 70m rope will get you back to the ledge ~10 feet of the ground. Easy down climb.
This route is right of the leaning pillar located where the approach trail meets the wall. Look for the twin crack start above a few feet of ledgy, easy climbing. The right crack arches to the left to meet the anchors. Climb the left crack once they diverge.
The first half takes a few BD 2's & 3's with one smaller piece in the start. From the good ledge the crack behind the flake starts 3" and quickly goes 4" and then 5". There is a two bolt anchor at the top.
|By the professor|
Jul 25, 2013
FA by Matt Barley and Andrew Christiansen in April 2002