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 ADVANCED
Stewarts Ledge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barking Spider T,TR 
Crackatoa T,TR 
Dog Pounder S 
Entertainer, The S,TR 
Frankenpine T 
Lithium S 
Nevermore T,TR 
Revolver T,S 
Valium S,TR 

Barking Spider 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 1989 Fraccia, Hammel, Erskine, Kennedy
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: Kevin Heckeler on May 15, 2012

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Valerie Bachinsky following on Barking Spider.

Description 

Take the left of two cracks to the top. Bolted anchors.


Location 

On the left side of the main face, climb the third class gully up left to a tree.


Protection 

Tricky stances but the gear is there and solid. Standard rack, #3 and #4 BD cam useful to avoid pumpy and questionable alternative nut placements.



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By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2012

The guide suggests the actual 5.8 route starts on the face where the third class ramp starts and gains the right crack. Looking at the wall it appears runout for 15+ feet to the crack, NOT G! The guide also suggests starting at the tree as described here is only 5.7, but after having led this it's definitely got a few 5.8 moves plus the stances for several of the gear placements are not ideal. I would put this at a solid 5.8 . Climbing is fun and not all the moves are a haul. Can be top roped using the third class access to a pine tree and rappeling to the bolted anchor. Please build an anchor on the pine tree and clean it later, do not rap directly off trees!