Take the left of two cracks to the top. Bolted anchors.
On the left side of the main face, climb the third class gully up left to a tree.
Tricky stances but the gear is there and solid. Standard rack, #3 and #4 BD cam useful to avoid pumpy and questionable alternative nut placements.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2012
The guide suggests the actual 5.8 route starts on the face where the third class ramp starts and gains the right crack. Looking at the wall it appears runout for 15+ feet to the crack, NOT G! The guide also suggests starting at the tree as described here is only 5.7, but after having led this it's definitely got a few 5.8 moves plus the stances for several of the gear placements are not ideal. I would put this at a solid 5.8 . Climbing is fun and not all the moves are a haul. Can be top roped using the third class access to a pine tree and rappeling to the bolted anchor. Please build an anchor on the pine tree and clean it later, do not rap directly off trees!