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Southeast Face
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Barfy's Favorite 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 4,153
Submitted By: Jimn Seiler on Mar 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: The start of Barfy's Favorite.

Description 

P1 - This climb starts on top of a boulder with a fairly tough move right off the bat. Face climb to a hand crack and belay at a tree.

P2 - Steps left and crack climb up to another tree, then to a corner and belay at a horizontal dike.

P3 - Good pitch climbs up large crack and around corners to a belay left of a small roof.

P4 - climb to right facing corner at the left end of a long roof, pull over the roof and climb run out, easy slab to the top.

Location 

Just to the North of The Greatest Route at Greyrock.

Per Aaron Martinuzzi: Location beta - this route starts on top of a boulder just right of a large, left-facing dihedral about 50 feet east (climber's right) of Greatest Route.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Barfy's Favorite Slideshow Add Photo
Swanson standing at the beginning of the 3rd pitch. I'm pretty sure.
Swanson standing at the beginning of the 3rd pitch...
At the top of our second pitch. We climbed up using several crack systems.
BETA PHOTO: At the top of our second pitch. We climbed up usin...
Climber halfway up our variation on pitch 3.
BETA PHOTO: Climber halfway up our variation on pitch 3.

Comments on Barfy's Favorite Add Comment
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By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Aug 15, 2008

5.7+. The only good move on the whole route was the move getting into the crack off of the boulder. Old school for sure. I thought i was on the wrong route, but I kept climbing and had some fun.
By Aaron Martinuzzi
May 3, 2009

Location beta - this route starts on top of a boulder just right of a large, left-facing dihedral about 50 feet east (climber's right) of Greatest Route. I moved off the top of the boulder into a nice handcrack right away. This first move was probably the most 5.7 of the entire route, as Matt suggests, but the first two pitches offer some really fun handcracks (though interrupted by the occasional shrub). Not to be missed if you're headed out to Greyrock.

When I climbed it today the middle of the third pitch corner had some bird shit and feathers floating around. A little unpleasant. also, it rained last night (2-May) and though much of the other climbing on Greyrock was dry, this corner and the adjacent wide crack were soaked.
By Scott Matz
From: Loveland, CO
Aug 10, 2009

At the third pitch, move right for some 5.8 crack and slab. This was the hardest pitch for our team of four. Navigate from crack to crack to find yourself on a nice ledge with a chock slone.
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 6, 2011

Barfy's is a fun climb and well worth doing.
Scott, the slab right of the dirty corner is known as Judy's Jaunt (5.7), and yes, it's a much better finish to Barfy's - making for a 3 star route.