Barenschlucht Wände Rock Climbing

Barenschlucht proper is one of the centerpiece crags of the Northern Frankenjura. It is among the most famous and popular crags in the Pottenstein region, with nearly 50 routes of all grades and styles. There’s even a 5.12 horizontal roof crack, established by Kurt Albert of course, for those who bothered to bring trad gear. The climbing really shines in the ninth and tenth grades, where steep, gymnastic lines surmount steeply overhanging pillars and sweeping walls. Classic lines include the blue-streaked technical wall of Barentoter (9+), the dynamic pumpfest Herkules (9+), Gullich’s near-vert tweakfest Center Court (10-), the gymnastic mono problem Subway (10), and the sweeping overhang of Drive By Shooting (10+/11-).

There is a popular campground nestled at the crag base, making it possible to roll out of your tent, stumble 50 paces, and start climbing. There is also a small playground near the entrance (though its proximity to the highway and creek means your tots will need to be closely supervised). If you’re visiting the Frankenjura without a car, this is the place to stay. The cliff faces south making this an ideal cold-weather destination, although a few trees offer some shade at the base. If its too hot, simply cross the street and climb at the north-facing Erinnerungswand, or walk 5 minutes to Puttlachkamin or the stellar Puttlacher Wand and its countless classics.