Barely Eagle 5.13-
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Good page? (3 likes)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13- [details] |
| FA: | Team Shred |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | summer, autumn |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Oct 6, 2010 |
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Looking up at Barely Eagle, with draws on it.
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Eagle Rock MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Barely Eagle climbs the bald, slightly overhanging shield along twin seams between the existing 5.11c (Eagle Hardware) and 5.11d corner (Golden Eagle) out right. It starts by climbing past an old ring-angle pin in a horizontal (optional clip; use a long sling), and then past seven stainless-steel bolts up the streaks to double-bolt anchors out of sight over the final roof.
Two bolts get you through the first roof (tough-ish) then easier climbing takes you up and right to a semi-stance below the headwall...The headwall is only four bolts long but very sustained, opening with a hard, crimpy boulder problem to continuous, techy sidepull moves and a surprise (!) finish. We brushed it as well as we could in a day, but it will need some travel and a bit of cleaning, so take a brush along if you do it.
The rating is "Boulder 5.12d" or maybe even "Boulder 5.12c" -- guess you'll just have to go up there and find out what that means. This is one of the more sustained "Boulder 5.12d's" in the canyon and a hell of a lot of fun.
Location This is midway between Eagle Hardware and Golden Eagle.
Protection Seven bolts, one piton, double-bolt anchors.
Finishing up the bizzleness....
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Launching into the bizzleness....
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By Doug Lintz
From: Kearney, NE
Oct 7, 2010
| Love the name! |
By Pinklebear
Oct 14, 2010
| The two loose blocks were removed, and she's all brushed up purdy and gussied up real nice: good to go for mass consumption. Also, the thumb catch on the left crimp at the crux crumbled, so you'll have to try a little harder. |
By Alex Shainman
From: Portland, OR
Aug 31, 2011
| Sustained "Boulder 12d" fo shizzle, my bizzle!
So you mean the left toothy crimp, which would be a sweet thumb catch in its own right, used to have a thumb catch? That's some hard bizzling!
Cool leg-flagging, seam-laybacking off balancedness to the top.
My main reason to comment, is to give heads up to the next person who gets on this to bring a wrench to tighten bolts #2 & 4.... They seriously unbizzled! |
By Pinklebear
Aug 31, 2011
| Ah, loose bolts: most unbizzled. If anyone goes up, take a 17mm wrench, or barring that an adjustable crescent. These are the Fixe wedge bolts with the big nuts on them. Thanks, Alex! |
By Joe Collins
Oct 24, 2011
| It doesn't seem like this has seen much traffic yet. It's still pretty licheny, which makes a lot of the fingertip liebacking feel really desperate... a wire brush may be in order. I really don't think this is going to see any downgrading if that's to what the "Boulder 12d" is a reference. Seems pretty stiff to me. |
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