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Waterfront, The
Routes Sorted
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Acapulco Arete S 
Baja Breakdown T 
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 
Certain Death T 
Chickenhead Holiday T 
Cold Duck T 
Comfort Zone S 
Disco Captain T,S 
Disco Chicken S,TR 
Disco Duck T 
Disco Lizard T,S 
Flirtin' Death T,S 
Flown the Coop S 
Gritman's Traverse T 
Head On T 
Just Hanging Out T 
Losing My Religion  T 
Mantels to Mazatlan S 
On the Waterfront T 
Seams Like the Seashore T 
Thin Slab S 
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 
Unknown T 
Waterfront Cave T 

Barefoot in Barbados 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ruckman, Ruckman
Page Views: 2,779
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 1, 2004

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Late Winter in LCC is the time for friction.

Description 

On the east end of the Waterfront, is a bolted route that climbs from a sandy porch. It is within voice distance of Kermit's Wad. It climbs a polished slab to an undercling, then attains a hole. Going from bolt 3 to bolt 5 is thin and consistent.

Protection 

5 draws and 2 more for the chains.


Photos of Barefoot in Barbados Slideshow Add Photo
Grabbing that draw, never seems to be as smooth as...
Grabbing that draw, never seems to be as smooth as...
Tim just after he clipped the out of line second b...
Tim just after he clipped the out of line second b...
Past the first bolt and heading up the flake.
Past the first bolt and heading up the flake.
We don't how long these remains had been here, but...
We don't how long these remains had been here, but...
Barefoot in Barbados
Barefoot in Barbados
Working through the thin sequence
Working through the thin sequence

Comments on Barefoot in Barbados Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 9, 2014
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 4, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A small cam may be used in the small corner instead of the second bolt. I prefer this for two reasons: (1) I found it easier to place the cam and clip it, than to reach out way right to clip the bolt; (2) it keeps the rope running a bit straighter, slightly less drag.
By Nathan Fisher
Dec 6, 2004

I had meant to add a comment on the bad placement of bolt 2, but I forgot until I read Bobby's comment. I totally agree that the 2nd bolt is a joke. I climbed this climb a couple of weeks after I initially posted this route up, and I did it without the 2nd bolt at all. Mainly proving to myself (and others that care), that the 2nd bolt is worthless, and creates a bad line. I was in fact attempting to do it without bolt 2 and 3, since bolt 3 is just above a pocketed/flake/hole thing. But my nerves made me clip bolt 3.
By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: New York, NY
Dec 6, 2004

A red alien is bomber in the small left facing corner after bolt 1. Agreed, bolt 2 is a joke.
By Lee Jensen
Mar 17, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Lots of little micro flakes for your hands and lots of friction for your feet. Nice little short slab. Would be two stars if it were longer.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 30, 2005

make sure to do the SLAP finish! At the last bolt, step out right onto the blank slab (left toe on a good chicken) for one final great move. Usually accompanied by a loud resounding "SLAP!!" as you try and get purchase on the buttcheek top-out for the mantle. Try it...I promise you will like it. Watch your friends under 6 feet go dynamic!!! It's a super fun finish to this short route. OH, and throw an orange TCU in for the second piece and avoid that contrived bolt, I agree...
By joe t
From: slc
Apr 10, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The climbing may not be world class, but hanging out at the shady base next to the small waterfall is certainly sweet.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
May 26, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Joe T., my guess is you are confused about exactly which route this is. If there is a waterfall nearby, you probably aren't going to be doing much slab climbing that day. See Sweep Left.
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Apr 16, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Take note of the small waterfall. Very nice setting.


Barefoot in Barbados
Barefoot in Barbados
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 25, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

:) Craig, I stand corrected.
By Derrick W
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 14, 2012

Great route for working on slab technique. It felt a little hard for the grade though that could just be the granite is getting worn. The 2nd bolt is now missing, so bring an appropriate sized cam for the left facing corner...or just run it out.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Oct 17, 2012

Verifying 2nd bolt is now gone, and has not been patched. The bolt was simply pulled from the cone.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yellow TCU fits the little pocket perfectly. Just make sure to extend it or you'll regret the rope drag.