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Routes in Pedra Escrita
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Bare Claw T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Meatgrinder T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roadside Attraction T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | Alex Honnold, Maury Birdwell |
| Page Views: | 737 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | MauryB on Sep 15, 2015 |
| Admins: | Nathan Cahill |
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Description
A beautifully striking crack that looks like it's going to be a pleasant outing of casual jams. Unfortunately, as the name suggests, it has some serious bite. The large quartz crystals in the crack are like spiked little vises on your hands. Alex and I thought it was probably the most painful pitch of rock climbing either of us had ever done.
Start with strenuous high step layback, you can get a high .75 to protect this. Stay with it for a few moves to a good fingerlock where you can place some good gear and get ready to grit and bear it for the next 100 feet.
Taped hands didn't seem to help much, perhaps some lightweight boxing gloves?
Start with strenuous high step layback, you can get a high .75 to protect this. Stay with it for a few moves to a good fingerlock where you can place some good gear and get ready to grit and bear it for the next 100 feet.
Taped hands didn't seem to help much, perhaps some lightweight boxing gloves?
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