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 ADVANCED
Barber Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arete., The T 
Big Deal Rock Climb T 
Black Crack T 
Black Lung T 
Book of Solemnity, The T 
Chicken Delight T 
Double Vee T 
Dresden T 
Final Gesture T 
Hatful of Hollow T 
Jolt T,S 
Kim Jung Il T 
Layton's Ascent T 
Lichen Delight T 
Lichen It a Lot T 
Medusa T 
Nomad Crack T 
Nutcracker T 
Off the Hook T,S 
Perseus  T,S 
Reconciliation T 
Retaliation T 
Upper Refuse T 
Webster's Unabridged T 
Youth Challenge T 

Barber Wall 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 15, 2007
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Henry Barber on Nutcracker, 2001.

Description 

The Barber Wall is the upper left wall of Cathedral Ledge, so named for Henry Barber and his extensive collection of first free accents on this section of the cliff. Barber was involved in the freeing of every crack from Nutcracker rightwards to Lichen Delight. All of these are classics and none are light in the grade.

This wall is one the best places to practice crack climbing if you plan to get on the longer more committing crack climbs on the cliff. The skills you learn on these 60 to nearly 200 foot climbs (the cliff gets taller as you head to the right toward Retaliation) can even be well applied to walls like Cannon Cliff or even the big walls of Yosemite. Locals often meet here for after work sessions in the evening so it is possible to meet partners here for some cragging.

Though this area is known for its cracks there are a number of desperate “sport” routes and mixed (bolt/trad) climbs. In the winter, ice covers much of the cliff making for grate steep ice climbing.


Getting There 

To get there, climb any route on the lower left wall. Or from the top hike south along the edge of the cliff meeting a trail that wraps around to the midway ledge splitting the Lower Left and Barber Wall. You will see nutcracker first as you hike along the ledge and the routes just keep on coming till you reach the upper half of the Prow area at Upper Refuse and the Book of Solemnity. You can also find the top of Double Vee and rap in.


25 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',5],['5.10',6],['5.11',5],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Barber Wall:
Upper Refuse   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Black Lung   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Final Gesture   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Retaliation   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Layton's Ascent   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 80'   
Chicken Delight   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 75'   
Nutcracker   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Double Vee   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad   
The Book of Solemnity   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Youth Challenge   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   
Black Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 150'   
Nomad Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad   
Lichen It a Lot   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Webster's Unabridged   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13     Trad   
Lichen Delight   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Dresden   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 75'   
The Arete.   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 165'   
Off the Hook   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Jolt   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Barber Wall

Featured Route For Barber Wall
P.Ross on the first ascent.1978

The Arete. 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c  NH : Cathedral Ledge : Barber Wall
A very committing lead up the spectacular knife edge just to the left of Black Crack and Upper Refuse. Due to the run outs on this climb it is not popular with modern climbers and is rarely led.P1)Stay on the edge of the arete, laybacking some flakes, then a hard move to a small overhang. Follow thin cracks to a bolt and stance. Face climb straight up (5.11b R) to a ledge. Then follow incipient cracks (5.9R) to the top. 165' 5.11b R....[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Barber Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wall. <br /> <br />(scan)
Greg Jackson on the great 'Nut Cracker', Barber Wa...
Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of Uncommon Ground.
Henry Barber racking up, 2001, during filming of U...
Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...
Alex on the clissic Black Lung 5.8...
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