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Barbed Wire Corner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong 1980's
Page Views: 348
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 20, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: the route goes up the corner between the two sharp...

Description 

This is just what i was looking for when i set forth to climb it. That being said i don't think many people will agree with me on my quality rating cause its not what most people look for in a climb. Loose, crumbly rock and less than perfect gear (placed in that questionable rock) make it a bit sketchy. I like this in a climb so long as the moves are fun and the moves on this route are very fun and engaging. If you like that kind of thing this route is for you!

Stick clip the low bolt and climb from the left (below Electric Socks) up and right past crumbling pinches to a possible gear placement. pull through the bulge (which i found to be the crux) up in to the corner. Figure some gear and climb the corner to a really fun move exiting the corner. I recommend continuing up Electric Socks, it's fun and has a better anchor.

Do be aware that this climb could be as dangerous for the belayer as it is for the leader. Watch for loose blocks!

Location 

the jagged corner just right of Electric Socks (5.8)

Protection 

Bolt, pin, trad gear. Key sizes are in the finger range but i used a little of every thing.


Photos of Barbed Wire Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Super sharp fins.
Super sharp fins.

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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 20, 2010

I believe the original name was a bit more colorful, but Ward PCed it. Probably a good call .."Daddy, what's a Barb Wire C ^&*?" could lead to domestic disputes.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 21, 2010

hahaha thats awesome!