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Rappel Rock
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L to R R to L Alpha
Baradur T 
Bender-Axen T 
Black Magic Woman T 
Black Quacker T 
Charadras T 
Chiboni T 
Chicken Sh*t Sandwich T 
Corner, The T 
Helm's Deep T 
Lude T 
Not So Easy Arch T 
Other Way, The T 
Quick Death T 
Standard Route T 
Storm Crow T 
Voodoo Child S 
Voodoo Child (direct start) T 
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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Grossman, Paul Davidson, 1979
Page Views: 1,137
Submitted By: John Steiger on Aug 17, 2011

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Peter Jackson’s version of Baradur, courtesy of W...

  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A number of us locals were competing for the FA of this line in the late 70s, a right-facing, right-leaning corner that just disappeared into an apparently blank face. Until Steve’s lead in 1979, those of us who tried it didn’t even make it to the end of the crack. Some of us called it the Crack of No Return, which doesn’t make sense now, but seemed to then – something to do with what appeared to be oblivion waiting at crack’s end. Steve didn’t have an easy time of it, though, taking several falls on the crack and hanging from a slinged ‘head to work out the crux face moves. Because Steve was in a different league from the rest of us, and maybe because he and Paul named it for the heart of the black land of Mordor, the route didn’t see a second ascent for five years (having the benefit of knowing it went, clad in better footwear, and wanting to impress the Verm, who was belaying, I barely squeaked up it first go -- ah, faded glory).

    The first pitch is the business; belay from slings at two bolts (hanging). The second is moderately run-out 5.10, protected by a lone bolt and some gear, to a ledge just after a short left-facing corner. The third and fourth pitches are 4th or very easy 5th class. I suspect that the first and second pitch can be combined, which would make for a lead worthy of Sauron.


    When walking along the base of Rappel from the west, skirt past an obvious right-slanting 3rd class ramp until the wall gets steeper; Baradur is the longest crack system before reaching Helm’s Deep.


    Standard trad rack to a 3” cam (I think). Be sure to include runners capable of securely slinging chickenheads.

    Comments on Baradur Add Comment
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    By Andy Bennett
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 6, 2015
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R

    The first pitch of this thing is truly a gem. Funky, engaging corner climbing delivers you to a devious and tricky-to-protect crux that gives way to sheer 5.10 chicken head glory. The crux may be very difficult for those under ~5.10" may have to dyno? The second pitch is a head game with a pretty cool crux section.

    The first pitch anchors have been updated to fat 1/2" SS bolts and hangers with links+rings. Thank you ASCA!. The old 1/4" bolts broke under frighteningly little force. Thanks to Greg Kay for the long hours he spent up there helping out and hauling heavy crap, and to Geir Hundal for loaning equipment, this classic climb is now ready to rock. And deserves to be climbed, at least the 1st pitch--it's excellent climbing and completely safe--go do it!

    Rock Climbing Photo: Original 1979 1st pitch anchor
    Original 1979 1st pitch anchor

    The second pitch is verging very close to R territory. Ok, I'm gonna say R. Don't fall. The lone 1/4" bolt protecting the crux on this pitch has also been updated to 1/2"SS (it also broke quite easily while I was trying to pull it). There's 3"-5" pro to be had in a small left-facing corner above the bolt, but it is in questionable rock. Instead of building an anchor in this crappy corner, you might just want to run it out way up and left to Disappointment Corner. You'll find good anchor pro up there.

    The final pitch is very run-out 5.8 climbing. By that I mean, after searching far and wide for a long time, I found just one laughably poor piece in ~70'. It's easy climbing, though. Either join Disappointment Corner, or cast off into the blank unknown in the hopes you'll find Helm's Deep's anchors or some other place to build an anchor...

    Rack: singles 00-0 BD cams, doubles from 0.3 BD-#3 BD cams, + a #4 if you're going to the top; stoppers; RPs/brass nuts/offsets very helpful.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The new and very inspiring ASCA anchor
    The new and very inspiring ASCA anchor

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