|Little John's Tower
This is one of the few moderate routes at Upper Blair, and is an excellent warm-up for the harder stuff in the area. Located on the SE face of Little John Tower, this pitch follows right-facing flake features to the obvious handcrack near the top.
The first flake can be reached from directly below, or more easily by following a dike in from the right. After the second flake, a weird traverse left gains the beautiful handcrack. There are excellent views of the Five Corners formation from the summit. Descend by scrambling down gullies on the north side of the formation.
Stoppers and hand-sized cams.
Apr 18, 2005
Recommended. The splitter crack at the top is deeeeelishus. Extra long runners at the flake (right before you travese left to the splitter crack) will help keep your rope drag manageable.
|By Brian Story|
Nov 15, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
The upper handcrack is one of the cleanest moderate handcracks I've found at Vedauwoo and not to be missed. The climbing up to the base of the handcrack is a little funky. Bring gear up to a #3 camalot and maybe a few extra hand size pieces.
|By Squatting Bear|
Aug 12, 2008
I would recommend climbing this in essentially two pitches. One to gain the base of the splitter, and two, the splitter crack itself.
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Aug 13, 2008
I agree with Squatting Bear. I did it in one pitch, but the funky climb at the bottom seems like an entirely separate thing than the lovely splitter at the top. There is a great belay ledge at the bottom of the splitter that would make it a logical, if non-traditional, way to do the climb.
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Aug 30, 2010
There are now anchors on this. A 50m rope will get you to the ground with just a smidgen to spare. The anchors are intended to keep someone from getting jacked up on the exposed and somewhat technical descent, but if you're a purist, just walk on past; the downclimb is still there for ya!
|By luke M|
Jun 11, 2011
Great climb. Interesting and varied up to a great "wide hands to fists" sized crack. I agree with the gear - doubles in hands and maybe a #5 for the traverse under the second flake.
I think the bolts on the top of this climb were poorly placed, but it's nice that there is some kind of rap descent. It definitely requires a couple of feet of exposed, crack/down climbing to get comfortably below the bolt hangers. Others may disagree. For a safety fiend like me, this should involve being on belay or tethered in some way.
Double ropes would make one pitch the ideal way to climb this.
Highly recommended. Enjoy.
|By Princess Mia|
Jul 17, 2012
Great route. The top is classic but big fists for me. Extra BD#3.5 came in handy. I was working pretty hard up there..... LOL
I did some sort of slither traverse.......super fun!!!
A 70m rope worked great for the rap with lots of extra. It seems as a 60m would be fine too, but I just don't see a 50m...... but I could be wrong......
|By Jason Albino|
From: San Francisco, CA
Jul 18, 2013
We did this on our last of 5 days in The Voo - a gorgeous day at Upper Blair with zero humans out there except us.
Really unique line that protects well and is also a good rope-management test piece for the 5.8 leader if you do this in one pitch. Bring at least 2-3 long slings for directing your pro on the right side of the two roundish flakes with the final hand-jam crack portion. Before the final jamcrack, I placed slung gear up in the highest horizontal crack to protect the follower, but then downclimbed a few steps to do the easier lower-angle leftward traverse towards the final jamcrack.
If you aren't solid on 5.8 jamcrack, bring at least one #3-4 and save it for halfway (or leapfrog it) up the final jamcrack to avoid a potential deck situation under this crack. That said, if you are solid at this level, you'll romp this delicious jamcrack to the bolts.
From the bolts, a more comfortable belay for the leader would be to climb up-and-over and set up a good gear belay for the follower. If you belay from the bolts, expect an awkward hanging belay.
From those bolts, a 60m rope reached the ground with a few feet to spare. Don't be deterred on the way up, as the route zig-zags and may appear to disallow a 60m rap.
|By Mike Bannister|
Sep 8, 2013
If the final crack went all the way to the ground, this would be the most popular climb at the Voo. Slings are your friends on this thing. Surprisingly spicy approach to the headwall crack.