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Bannana Peel T 
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 
Unfinished Symphony T,S 
Vector T 
White Lightning T 

Bannana Peel 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,188
Submitted By: Kurt Withers on Mar 21, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Undulating granite on Banana Peel's 3rd pitch. The...

Description 

The start is as for Diedre. Up the slab to the crack that moves right. VERY Easy all the way across the slab. Sling tree on the way by. Simulclimb the first 2 pitches (5.2 at the most!) till you get to a dirty ledge with a tree. Belay here or sling the tree and Head up the slab right in front of you to a tree belay on the left. (SHORT!! Pitch you can even simul climb this part if you wanted cause there is no pro on the slab so it doesn't really matter if you have a belay).

Head up the slab aiming for a right facing corner past a bolt look for good holds above your head and have at it (Crux 5.7). Ramble left up a finger crack traverse and belay at a tree. Continue up the route following the obvious line of water scoops to a little alcove and a gear belay.

Surmount the slab (crux 5.7 a little freaky but super fun!!) along a small ripple upwards to a huge hole then you have 2 options.

  • Option 1 Place a cam high on the flake to create a semi toprope for the second coming across the slab and belay from a tree island below.

  • Option 2 continue up a corner to a huge flake and to a tree belay up and left. (If your second is confident then go for option 2 you eliminate a belay)

Ramble up the water scoops (5.easy) and either a gear belay at the overlap just below a big block or do a little simul climbing so that you can belay from behind the big block and ramble up the final easy slab (4th class) to the tree belay at the finish. This route is 2 moderate moves then jug haul flake fest in between. Super fun though a little run out in spots.



Photos of Bannana Peel Slideshow Add Photo
At the belay looking at the crux 3rd pitch, the line goes right across the wet and up to the corner, the corner goes at 5.7/5.8 with good gear
BETA PHOTO: At the belay looking at the crux 3rd pitch, the li...
Tree stem start to third pitch of Banana Peel
Tree stem start to third pitch of Banana Peel
Start of Banana Peel looking up,  note the birch tree on the left with the wear from ropes and sling, thats the official start,  I like the lower slab start to the flake and tree.  Go to the 2nd horizontal in the photo than foot traverse right until you are out of rope or at a good belay below a bolt than follow the waves to the 2nd pitch to the right
BETA PHOTO: Start of Banana Peel looking up, note the birch t...
Continuing on the foot ledge on the second pitch of Banana Peel
Continuing on the foot ledge on the second pitch o...
First pitch of Banana Peel
First pitch of Banana Peel
Up high on Banana Peel.
Up high on Banana Peel.
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