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This is Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bang's Canyon lies a VERY steep, little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD. There is one 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...), but everything else is 12a-13c. (EDIT: There is also a 10b that went up recently.)
To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Bang's Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bang's Canyon:
Baby Bang 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Choss Master 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
She Bangs 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Big Fat Weiners 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Bang and Blame 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Liquid Charcoal 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Pumping Jesus 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Bang's Canyon
Unknown (.13-) 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon
Climb about 15 feet to the start of the "actual" route. Shake out your hands and start climbing! It has awesome, technical climbing up to a definitive crux off a gnarly sloper out to a pretty good jug (if you can get there). Then it's a burl fest from there.... A big deadpoint throws pull you around the lip....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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