Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Bang's Canyon
The North Face Bighorn 20F HOT Sleeping Bag New Taupe

$109.99 45% off

$59.99

at AlsSports

386    more...
Kelty Mistral 20 Sleeping Bag

$74.99 25% off

$56.24

at AlsSports

   more...
Five Ten Rogue Climbing Shoe - Men's

$109.95 27% off

$79.94

at E-OMC

27    more...
Patagonia Men's Fore Runner 14-Zip

$59.00 50% off

$29.50

at Patagonia

26    more...
Patagonia Women's Mixed Guide Hoody

$299.00 50% off

$149.50

at Patagonia

23    more...
Anasazi Verde Climbing Shoe - 6

$159.95 25% off

$119.96

at CampSaver

8    more...
Petzl Quark Ice Tool

$259.00 20% off

$207.20

at Backcountry

   more...
Slumberjack Camp 6 Tent - 6 Person3 Season

$249.99 30% off

$174.99

at AlsSports

82    more...
Rescue 8 Aluminum Polished

$39.95 25% off

$29.96

at CampSaver

8    more...
Mountain Hardwear Hammerhead 2 Tent - 2 Person

$289.99 25% off

$217.49

at AlsSports

67    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Select Route:
Baby Bang 
Bang and Blame 
Big Bang 
Big Fat Weiners 
Blackhole 
Choss Master 
Liquid Charcoal  
Project 
Proper Grammar 
Pumping Jesus 
She Bangs 
Unknown (.13-) 
Wormhole 

Bang's Canyon 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Page Views: 7,241. Good page?   
Administrators: Jesse Zacher, Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Skyeler Congdon on Mar 24, 2007

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 

The Captain on "Choss Master" 11a. Area Warm-up. P...

Description 

This is Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bang's Canyon lies a VERY steep, little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD. There is one 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...), but everything else is 12a-13c. (EDIT: There is also a 10b that went up recently.)

At first glance, the rocks seems like total choss, but the two routes I've done so far were both great. This is a superb training crag due to the steepness and technical nature of the climbing. Best of all, this crag sits in a BEAUTIFUL canyon complete with waterfall and afternoon shade.


Getting There 

To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bang's Canyon:
Proper Grammar   V6+     Boulder, 20 feet   
Blackhole   V7     Boulder, 15 feet   
Baby Bang   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Choss Master   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Big Fat Weiners   5.12a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Bang and Blame   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Liquid Charcoal    5.12c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Pumping Jesus   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Unknown (.13-)   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Big Bang   5.13c     Sport, 65 feet   
Project   5.13c/d     Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet   
Browse More Classics in Bang's Canyon

Featured Route For Bang's Canyon
My sister gettin' fierce on Choss Master.

Choss Master 5.11a  CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon
The area warm-up. Steep and juggy down low, thin and technical midway- and a spooky undercling crux at the very end....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Bang's Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Route guide for this area.

Route guide for this area.

The wall when you first come up on it.

The wall when you first come up on it.

Some scenery of the hike in.

Some scenery of the hike in.

The walk back.

The walk back.


Comments on Bang's Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments —
By CURT LOVE
Jul 7, 2009

unknown 10 b
baby bang

By Hoez
From: Uganda
Mar 8, 2010

I've donated about 6 quickdraws to this area.

Every single one has now been cleaned/stolen and is in the possession of someone other than the original owner....

I've put more up and they are a DONATION to this crag. Leave them alone - they're not yours! Have some respect and courtesy for other climbers trying to enjoy the area.

The routes here are hard and its nice to have an escape draw to bail on when your too pumped to get to the chains. It's also very convenient not to have to leave one of your new expensive quickdraws behind as well....

Seriously... pull your head out of your ass.

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Mar 11, 2010

I had some equipment from this area stolen as well. I would recommend tightened screw links on the bolt side of quick draws.

By NEH
Jun 27, 2010

I wish had read your posts before I left my draws on Bang and Blame. I went back for the send this weekend and someone had taken all of my draws. They had even taken the new carabiners off the anchor of Baby Bang.

This saddens me to know that someone here locally has such little respect for people in his/her community that he/she feels entitled to steal from them. All I can say is this F***** is accumulating some seriously bad karma!

By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jul 3, 2010

NEH: the kid that took your draws is new to outside climbing and didn't know any better. He felt really bad when we told him he shouldn’t have taken them. I had him drop them off at the gym and you can pick them up any time. He didn’t take the biners off of Baby Bang.

On a side note: The BLM has asked that we not leave draws hanging in this area and mentioned how easy it was to rap in and hang draws then rap in to take them back down after. Just passing the word.