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This is Grand Junction's only bona fide sport crag! Just up the trail from the mica mine in Bang's Canyon lies a VERY steep, little crag with about 8 or 9 routes. These routes are HARD. There is one 11a warm-up (locals have been known to call it 10d...), but everything else is 12a-13c. (EDIT: There is also a 10b that went up recently.)
To reach from Grand Jct., turn off Broadway (CO highway 340) onto Rim Rock Drive (the way to the CNM) and go 1 block, then turn left on to D Road, which soon turns into Rosevale Rd. and leads to CS Road (aka Little Park Road). Follow CS Road for approximately 5 miles (8km) to the turnoff to Rough and Bangs Canyons at the first left after the crest of the hill. This is also the trailhead to the Tabeguache Trail. Park at the gravel parking area and hike 1/4 mile (0.4 km) southwest on a rough road to a small canyon. Turn right (Left is Rough Canyon) and walk for 20-30 minutes. Soon you will reach an old mica mine (giant white cave). From there, it's just another 50 meters on the right.
13 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Bang's Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bang's Canyon:
Wormhole V5-6 6c+ Boulder, 15'
Proper Grammar V6+ 7a Boulder, 20'
Blackhole V7 7a+ Boulder, 15'
Baby Bang 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Choss Master 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
She Bangs 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Big Fat Weiners 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Bang and Blame 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Liquid Charcoal 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Pumping Jesus 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Unknown (.13-) 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Big Bang 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 65'
Project 5.13c/d 8b 31 X E8 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Featured Route For Bang's Canyon
Project 5.13c/d 8b 31 X E8 7a CO : Grand Junction area : Bang's Canyon
Start on 2 incut edges pull up and to the left to a sloper sidepull. Set up and go right to an intermediate pinch, then up with your right hand to a good crimp. Go out left to a possible mantle on a crazy featured, mondo sloper then up with your left to a crimp. Figure out how to go up again and grab a good crimp that has been reinforced with some type of glue (?) and make a couple more big throws before you finish the crux section and move on through to the easier part. If you can get this far,...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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