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Old School Rock
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Bang Bang S 
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Bang Bang 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 481
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 10, 2009

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  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A sweet handjam, a drop-knee, and a partial kneebar on a superb line that climbs a prow high above the starting gully.

    A tricky start leads to briefly easier climbing, followed by a slightly overhanging section right where you think you'd get a rest. A thin bit leads to the base of the upper prow, followed by some difficult moves to get established on the prow. Sidepulls and small crimps lead up the steep rock, until the angle eases just before the anchors.

    Location 

    The right-most (uphill) of the two bolted lines on the north-facing side of Old School Rock.

    Protection 

    10 bolts, Metolius rap anchors.


    Comments on Bang Bang Add Comment
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    By Perin Blanchard
    Administrator
    From: Orem, UT
    Sep 10, 2009

    I was told this line is .11c but it felt more like .11b to me. If you don't avail yourself of the obvious rest before the crux, it probably feels more like .11c.
    By Jeff Jones
    From: Elk Ridge, UT
    Sep 23, 2009
    rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    This is another gem in this canyon that is superb. Perin and I went up there not knowing much about this climb. Thank goodness for the rest but since I have never climbed an .11c (even in the gym), I have to agree with Perin. You will use a variety of techniques to get up this quality line.