A massive formation with challenging, LONG (or multi-pitch) routes up pockets, cracks, and features. The routes are typically challenging and most head up overhanging rock. This makes this area a decent place to head when it's raining or has just stopped as it typically stays dry, though there are sections that seep water.
From Nuremberg, drive up to Forchheim and then towards Ebermannstadt. After driving through Ebermannstadt, continue driving down this road to Muggendorf. From Muggendorf, drive through the town and take the road uphill (Dooser Berg). At the intersection at the top of the hill, head left towards Albertshof. You'll see a sign for Doos finally along this road, and then you'll come to a stop sign. Drive straight through and head into Doos. At the next stop sign, take a left. Soon thereafter (a little less than 1 km) you'll see a parking pulloff on your right. Park here. Walk in the same direction you were driving along the road for 200m and take the trail into the trees on your left. You'll recognize this area from the road by the two giant diagonal cracks through it. Follow the trail to the base of the routes.
Featured Route For Bandstein
The easiest route to the top of this imposing formation. There is quite a bit of traversing and some plants and you might encounter a bit of choss, but the holds are good.P1: Climb up to the first bolt and head up and left with your feet on the small diagonal crack up to the large hole with a bolt at the roof. Negotiate this overhang using great holds and clip the sling. Continue up the slabby, featured moves to the good belay stance above. Or continue up the grassy slab to the left of this bela...[more] Browse More Classics in International