|Black Widow Slab
This is the climb immediately right of F**k You. Look for a dihedral with very closely spaced bolts. Climb the dihedral to a huge ledge. The closeness of the bolts suggest that it is intended to climb closer to the arete, but the corner is right there.
From the ledge, wander up a loose, vegetated ledge to a line of bolts on the upper headwall. One could also avoid the ledge traverse by continuing straight up on the excellent upper part of F**k You. Make a sketchy move to clip the first bolt on the headwall, and follow the line of bolts to the top.
12 or so bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
|By Aeon Aki|
Jul 12, 2011
I found this to be the most poorly bolted (dangerous) sport climb I've done in Boulder Canyon. At the bottom, the bolts are so close you might z-clip, then it's "adventure sport climbing" through plants, trees, loose rock, and hard to reach bolt hangers above the first big ledge. The upper section of this pitch is extremely dirty and the anchors are positioned in a way that causes continuous strain on the rope.
The overall line is very nice however and a few pieces of supplemental gear (and a wire brush) might make this climb more enjoyable.
Aug 12, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
I found this climb and loved it, it has a lot for a moderate climb - crimps, slaps, slopes, heels, cracks, aretes, and much much more - but I agree with the above mentioned statement. Whomever bolted this route needs to do the rest of the climbing world a favor and never bolt again. My favorite part is the bolt that was placed too deeply and is simply sitting in the face with no anchor whatsoever - thank you for not actually putting an anchor on that bolt by the way - but the route is a very interesting climb. Altogether, the landing is stellar, the climb is in the shade and bolts 5-14 are part of an amazing climb. Glad I found it, if it wasn't for the bolting, I would have rated this a 2 star problem.
|By George Bracksieck|
Nov 1, 2013
A fun, mostly trad, 5.10 variation can be climbed in the dihedral to the right of the first four bolts. Continue up to the fifth bolt, and avoid the 11d section to its right. Clip more bolts and place more gear, as you reach back left to the upper part of Bands and climb 5.10 to its anchors.