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Making the final pump before turning the lip
Start dancing outlaw move up left to the crimps in the middle of the face. A couple of bumps off the slopers and a toe hook get you over the lip. Set a heel and grab some patina to top it out.
From Dancing Outlaw, traverse left and go up.
Setting the heel on the crimp before matching and ...
|By andy patterson|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Feb 25, 2013
Wait to go, guys! The first encounter I had with this problem was back in 2010, with my friend Jake Novotny. After scrubbing the holds one afternoon, we started the problem down and left of the bump-rails, with our left hand on that sharp pocket thingy. From there, we climbed straight up in to the "bump" moves. Beginning on Dancing Outlaw looks better. At the time, we thought the top was pretty hard. We suggested a potential grade of V9 (we never did it) back then, and it looks like we may have been right.
|By Bob Banks|
Feb 25, 2013
This is fricking awesome. I tried this a bunch when we first developed this boulder and was far too weak to get enough lift to get over the lip. I thought that move seemed really hard. Good name too. Well done!
|By Sean Denny|
From: Los Angeles
Mar 2, 2013
I remember trying this a few years back as well, but never got psyched enough (or strong enough) to finish. I had always assumed that Andy or someone else had already done it. Well, I'm stoked that it finally got done! Looking forward to a visit in the near future to give it a whirl.
Just to perpetuate the silliness, has anyone considered starting as for smooth criminal and traversing into this?