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2-fer T,S 
Antlers on a Sunday T 
Arch Traverse S 
Bandito T 
Beginner's Luck T 
Black Dynamite T 
Bridge of Air T,S 
Burnt Beautician T,S 
Catch a Wave S 
Dike Arch T,S 
Dike Pinch T,S 
Don Juan T 
Dreams of Far Away Places T 
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Gargoyle T 
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Motion Fascination T 
Napa Arete T,S 
Napa Valley T 
Optical Illusions S 
Overlap T,S 
People are Poodles Too. T 
Pillar 1 S 
Pillar 2a  T,S 
Porticullis S 
R-Tree It T,S 
Red Hangers T 
Right of Trash Can Alley T 
Second Pillar S 
Silently Indirect T,S 
Simple Mind S 
Single Bolt Seam T 
Smooth Reach T,S 
Standard Route T 
Steeple, The T 
Sun Dancer T 
Sweet Sunday Serenade T 
Three's Company T 
Tree It T,S 
Undocumented (Left of Bandito) T 
Unknown Arete T,S 
Unknown Pillar T,S 
Unknown Reach T,S 
Upper Deck 0.5 T,S 
Upper Deck 1 T,S 
Upper Deck 2 T,S 
Wave, The T,S 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: KC Baum and Don Anderson, 9/87
Page Views: 1,259
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Jan 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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The crux is right off the ground pulling a face move to reach the top of a small pillar. Continue up the crack system to a gully, continue about 20 feet up the gully to a two bolt anchor.


This is located right where the trail meets the wall about 15 feet right of Don Juan.


Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces.

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By Mahjoe
Sep 24, 2012

Really fun, bouldering style start...the first 30-ish feet are definitely the highlight of the climb.
By Dave Bail
Jan 7, 2013

Just an itsy bitsy devious....
By Andy Bowen
From: Grand Junction, CO
Sep 11, 2015

Yeah, just that one crux right off the ground...? Ok, my two cents.... Climbed fine for 10 feet, "bouldery start" I guess, then the grade becomes something else, or maybe it is just Unaweep granite. I have climbed for a while now and never had a 5.8+ present that many crimps (maybe I was blind to the jugs?) and big friction moves. Topped off with a "should I try this left line to the anchors or make a huge move over to them? Huge move on right gets pro, the sloping left gets nada...?"
By standard rack, they must have meant lots of smalls. More than one, 0.3, 0.2 Camalots or TCU equivalent are great. The last, smaller than they mention, piece before the end of the 20 foot crack is important... I didn't have one...
I already admitted it may be the Unaweep Granite, so hold off on the manly jokes. I really just wanted to help the next guy/gal with what to expect. DO IT, it is fun, but... 1987 5.8+, is a different sort of grade, the system has gone through a few changes in the last 30 years. This climb felt very tough for the grade. I have noticed this to be common on many older climbs throughout the granite. This one just forced my hand to comment on, haha.
Consistent grades in Unaweep granite? No. This should at least make anyone a little better by the end of the trip. :)
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