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Bananas on Acid 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Johnny Myrick, Matt Samet
Page Views: 684
Submitted By: LeeAB on Feb 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

Scramble up into a scoop on the left side of the prow. Clip the first bolt and make a big move off of a great jug up into some pockets and the second bolt. At the third bolt, cruxy moves on the very blunt arete lead to big move back left to a loose looking flake and the fourth bolt. A couple of gastons lead to a razor blade straight up off of the flake and the shared anchor on the right with Banana Peel.

  • The guide books have always said "for a true ascent, avoid the jugs on the right at the 3rd and 4th bolts", I'm not really sure what they are talking about unless they mean, don't climb Banana Peel and clip these bolts? I guess I was pretty close to the flake system of Banana Peel but it faces away from you and you don't really see it.

Location 

Left of Banana Peel. Just right of the low point of the wall directly above a half dead but quite tall cactus.

Protection 

4 bolts and a chain anchor shared with Banana Peel.


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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 15, 2009

Definitely seemed a bit harder than Hurt Me Not.
By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 7, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I agree that this feels harder than Hurt Me Not, the crux of this always feels hard to me.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Dec 7, 2009

Well, if this is harder than Hurt Me Not, how is it that people say that Hurt Me is 5.12a or even a/b while this is 5.12a or even 5.11d? Certainly they could be the same grade with one beinging harder than the other but to have them completely switched? Could it be because the Hurt Me Not grade got extra credit at one point because you had to place some gear?, which you don't have to do any more.
By Wa3lt
Jan 28, 2010

This was the first 5.12 I ever climbed, and I onsighted it somehow. I recall it seeming pretty easy, with the exception of some flash-pump and some sequence misreading that resulting in me *high stepping on my own fingers* to get the send. Yeah, very stupid.

I would say (based on 15 year old recollection) that it's soft for 12a. But my memory of this climb is pretty limited to the ghosts of horrible finger pain. So who knows.
By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jan 29, 2010

The amazingly cordinated and graceful Wa3lt will now perform his sick highstep and squeal in pain move for everyone to learn from. Seriously, Ugh, OUCH.
By emmet
Oct 23, 2010

FA: Johnny Myrick, Matt Samet