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Start is fairly mellow, up to a low ledge and good rest. Power over a small roof, then fun moves up the arete. Second crux comes about 2/3 of the way up, when you move onto the narrow face to the right of the arete. Great sustained climbing with interesting movement from the time you leave the ledge to the anchors.
Continue up the river bed past Manhattan and the alcove with The Blade, Handsome Parish Lady, E Pluribus..., etc. Bananarama goes up a striking arete and narrow face on the far side of the alcove. It's the last climb before the major concentration of climbing ends, except for Bunga Bunga and Didgemaster, which are located just around the corner, on a side canyon that leads up left to the mesa top.
8 or 9 bolts to slightly rusty 3-chain anchor - could use replacement, especially since this excellent route is worthy of a lot of traffic.
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 29, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easily the best 10 I've done at Cochiti, though admittedly I haven't done many. I especially enjoyed the upper section above the cruxy roof where I meandered back and forth between two aretes. 8 bolts, I believe.