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The Tall Wall
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Banana Split 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Blitzo on Mar 14, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: "Banana Split".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

To the right of "Bananarama", climb seams and face, passing a bolt, and the obvious wide crack. Move up and right from near the cracks top to anchors.


Protection 

Pro 3"-4".



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By Bruce Bindner
Oct 21, 2008

Guidebook rates this climb 5.10a. Face entry feels like 5.9, but definitely not 5.8. Route takes pro to 8"

Cheers,
Brutus

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 1, 2009

I agree:

Calling this route a 5.10 is a stretch. I give it a 5.9 start, then 5.8 for the rest.

By LifeIsGood
May 15, 2010

We TR'd this one from the anchors to the right - it was certainly not 10a - pretty easy up the crack

By Josh Cameron
Aug 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I agree with Bruce. I always thought the crux was around the bolt on the face at 5.9. After that, the crack feels 5.7ish or 5.8ish. I led it with a #4 and #5 C4 and felt relatively safe, though I do admit to sliding one of my cams up with me.

By RussellG
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun crack with decent rests. A good 'feel good' crack with many face features on either side. Big gear up higher -#3 and #4.