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 ADVANCED
Central Wall
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Alice in Banana Land T,S 
All the Nasties T 
Banana Patch T 
Bitchin Chimney T 
Brain Dead S 
Cowboyography T,S 
Divine Wind / All the Nasties T 
Hueco Syndrome S 
Lunacy T 
Lunar Abstract S 
Malice In Bucketland T 
Sea of Holes S 
Uriah's Heap T 
Walking on the Moon T 
Window Pain S 

Banana Patch 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 487
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 14, 2007

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Some areas require a guide.

Description 

A clean line following a thin crack. It starts up a thin seam for about 15 ft. The crux is traversing 10 ft to the right to reach the bottom of another thin finger crack. It is mostly a mental crux, requiring good composure as you face a near groundfall. A few moves up the finger crack and the climbing becomes easier although still steep. Big huecos to either side of the crack provide rest holds and gear-placement stances. The crack ends by petering out next to a huge chimney. A very exposed move bridges the chimney at an obvious weakness, and traverses right for a few feet before climbing up to a ledge/bush and a bolted anchor.

An alternate start (also 5.10) is to climb the face 4 ft to the left of the chimney to a bolt 15 ft off the ground, and then make a few moves to the left to reach the upper thin crack.

Some delicate climbing involved, fun exposed moves, and good gear makes this route a worthy tick.

Location 

Located on the cakewalk buttress to the left of a large chimney (Bitchin Chimney). Two-rope rappel from anchor, or finish up another route and walk-off.

Protection 

Small wires and cams. A large wire or tricam can protect the exposed chimney move. Use long slings on gear near the chimney.


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By Chad Namolik
From: Sequoia N.P., CA
Feb 4, 2014

The thin crack climbs like a face since it isn't deep enough to jam in. A lot of face, lie-back and gaston will get you up to the step across move which is easy for a tall person. The thin gear is good. blue and yellow metolius cams. I placed an orange one for the step across move.
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