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Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff
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Banana Head 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- British: E7 6c

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13c/d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Jerry Handren, 1992
Page Views: 935
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 27, 2009
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Banana Head climbs up the conspicuous yellow wall in the middle of Sundown's Main Cliff. This wall is unique for Sundown and looks more like a little piece of Rifle. It's steep and is covered with blocky holds and overhangs.

Banana Head climbs up the left side of the wall and ends at anchors a little more than halfway up. The first three bolts hold some very physical, full-body climbing. After this initial crux, the climbing eases a bit and culminates with a big lock off before the anchors. This is a great route, and is sure to work those big muscle groups, unlike some of Sundown's other harder routes, that mostly burn the fingers.

Though rated 13b in the Webster guide, many people think Banana Head is really hard for the grade. Therefore, I've added it as a slash grade.


Left of The Big Rip.



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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 28, 2009

Nice addition Jay. Is the big bolt-on hold still in place?

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 28, 2009

No, the bolt-on hold was removed a few years ago. I'm not sure if the extension goes without it. It might be possible.

Do you agree with my grade on this?

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 29, 2009

I didn't think it was b/c, doing it to the anchor 2nd try back in 1997. The low boulder problem off the ledge is really the meat of the climb. However that's just an opinion.

I don't see why an extension wouldn't go somehow up there. The rock is pretty featured; it's the quality of it that's the problem.

By Dana Seaton
Aug 30, 2009

I think I heard, or maybe read that Tim Kemple sent without the gym hold. Cheers,...d