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The Wye valley's best sport crag, with a good collection of routes in the 5.11s and .12s. Although there are also some traditional routes, the bolted lines are the main attraction here, and some of the old trad routes have been recently retro-bolted. The rock is natural limestone, steep for the most part, with some truly awesome roof climbing around the Crawl Area and the Main Wall.
From Chepstow follow the A48 towards Gloucester then take a left shortly after crossing the river, signposted to Woodcroft. Pass the Rising Sun Inn then take the next left onto Lancaut Lane. Parking is available in a few small laybys on the left. From here, walk a short way further down Lancaut Lane before a fairly good footpath leaves the road on the right. About 500m along this is the right end of the crag.
3 Total Routes
Featured Route For Ban-y-Gor Rocks
Named with the American accent in mind, presumably a visiting US climber was in some way involved with the FA.Good 'Jab' is the counterpart of Latest Craze, based on (but not often using) the same arete but on its left side. The route starts with a bit of a grovel to gain the short corner about 3m left of the arete. A stemmed rest and the second bolt is the reward for that inelegant manoeuvre. Continue to stem up the corner, mostly in balance, before making a stretch rightwards to clip bolt 3 th...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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