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The Wye valley's best sport crag, with a good collection of routes in the 5.11s and .12s. Although there are also some traditional routes, the bolted lines are the main attraction here, and some of the old trad routes have been recently retro-bolted. The rock is natural limestone, steep for the most part, with some truly awesome roof climbing around the Crawl Area and the Main Wall.
From Chepstow follow the A48 towards Gloucester then take a left shortly after crossing the river, signposted to Woodcroft. Pass the Rising Sun Inn then take the next left onto Lancaut Lane. Parking is available in a few small laybys on the left. From here, walk a short way further down Lancaut Lane before a fairly good footpath leaves the road on the right. About 500m along this is the right end of the crag.
3 Total Routes
Featured Route For Ban-y-Gor Rocks
One of the crags most classic routes, powerful and delicate in turn, with insecure moves up the photogenic arete bounding the right side of the Crawl Wall.Start about 4m right of the arete, with a few strenuous pulls to gain a good pinch and clip the second bolt. Now make a big span leftwards to gain the arete, using good sidepulls but not much for the feet.The position on the arete is not quite a rest, but take a few moments to shake out before launching up the arete. A heel-hook on a good ledg...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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