|In Between Routes a.k.a "The Flintstones Wall"
A shorter, stouter version of his old man. Bamm-Bamm starts on big jugs that lead to a small roof with a seam that can set you up for a perfect layback move that leads to jugs. Some people opt to skip this beginning crux by staying to the slabby steps to the right.
After pulling the roof (or not) work yourself onto a ledge system and start making your way up the arete. Stay right of the bolts if your in the mood for a potential beatdown or stay left of the bolts for a more Betty-like experience.
To the immediate right of Barney Rubble.
Since it is right next to everyone's favorite 5.8, this climb is bolted closely with the beginning leader in mind.
While the bolts are close together for your confidence and conviencenc they are not TOO close, however, keep in mind that Z-clipping is possible on any climb if you don't know the proper rope handling technique.
Recommeded reading: www.abc-of-rockclimbing.com/howto/backclipping.asp
Sunshine Wall, Sp...
|By Wilson On The Drums|
From: Woodbury, MN
Oct 30, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
really fun route, glad i got on it as my second lead at spearfish (got the os). the 5.9 rating would come from your decision to do the layback at the start (i would do it if i get on the route again). if you skip it and head left (like I did, I'm used to careful route finding on granite in the southern hills), it will feel more like 5.8, although there is a little off balance part up top. get on it!
Jul 4, 2014
wow talk about grid bolting good job