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Balrog 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Grahm Doe, 2003
Page Views: 994
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Nov 12, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

Fun 5.11- climbing leads to a high crux. A series of bad holds after a powerful clip yield access to the headwall. Commit to the bad holds and you are quickly rewarded with an easy finish.

This route only lacks in stars due the variance in difficulty between the crux and the rest of the climb


Location 

Below the right side of the big roof. Left of Salutations and Delirious.


Protection 

9 Bolts to Open Shuts



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By Choncho
Jul 13, 2010

High quality.

By gregory huey
From: Riverside, CA
Nov 18, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Finally bagged the redpoint on Sep 1, 2011

"Those that looked up from afar thought that the mountain was crowned with storm. Thunder they heard, and lightning, they said, smote upon Celebdil, and leaped back broken into tongues of fire. Is not that enough? A great smoke rose about us, vapour and steam. Ice fell like rain. I threw down my enemy, and he fell from the high place and broke the mountain-side where he smote it in his ruin. Then darkness took me; and I strayed out of thought and time, and I wandered far on roads that I will not tell."

Maybe that last part is how Lukasz and I managed to forget those two draws on the anchor of Nostalgia.

Well, darn it, now I have to find a new Quarry project - and I hope it won't take the better part of a year to send this time.