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g. V3 - Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absurdland T 
Alley Oop T 
Badfinger T 
Balrog T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Blunderbus T,TR 
Bombs Away Dream Baby T 
Bullfrog T 
Cakewalk T 
Cheap Thrills T 
City Streets T 
Commando Rave T 
Country Roads T 
Dat-Mantel T 
Dis-Mantel T 
Dry Heaves T 
Faithful Journey T 
Gory Thumb T 
J'accuse T 
Middle Earth T 
Never Never Land T 
Never Say Never T,TR 
Nevermore T 
On Any Monday T 
Raunchy T 
Red's Ruin T 
Sente T 
Snake T 
Snowpatch T 
Talus of Powder T 
Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct T 
Triangle T 
Turdland T 
V-3 T 
Wild Horses T 
Wisecrack T 
Wonderland T 
Yenta TR 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Rich Goldstone
Page Views: 3,890
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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Almost there.

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Begin just down and left of the pillar/ledge from which Alley Oop and Dry Heaves start.

Climb up cracks aiming for the huge, hanging, right-facing corner. Pull up into this corner (crux), and continue to an anchor.


Standard rack.

Photos of Balrog Slideshow Add Photo
Simon on Balrog
Simon on Balrog
Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Mark Mooradian on the approach.
Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
Jeff Arliss contemplating the crux.
moving into the crux
moving into the crux
Just after the crux.
Just after the crux.
chris vultaggio on balrog
chris vultaggio on balrog
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Tricia at the Balrog crux.
Placing gear at the crux ... fun climb!
Placing gear at the crux ... fun climb!

Comments on Balrog Add Comment
Show which comments
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 21, 2010

Finally, a gunks climb that works better for shorties. One move wonder.
By BrianRH
From: Jersey City, NJ
Aug 15, 2011

Some solid 5.8 moves get you to the crux. Protection at the crux is bomber. Williams' description is about right: if you get the sequence wrong, you can easily make this 5.10 crux into a 5.11. Take your time and figure it out. Also the route is about 75 ft, not 750 ft...
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Oct 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Sweet climb. The crux is hard to onsight if you're climbing near your limit but you get a great rest to figure it out from and the gear is bomber.
By kevin neville
From: Somerville, MA
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

There's currently a fixed nut at the crux. Totally G-rated.
By Pawel
From: NJ
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

No fixed gear as of 9/14. Crux super well protected but bring small stuff (000 C3 or wires) for the vertical crack below the roof.
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