The Balls Wall is a small south facing cliff located just a couple miles up FR 111. It's the "rock dike" as described in Tim Toula's directions to The Balls in A Cheap Way To Fly. It's likely that The Balls, the two mammoth boulders located beneath the road, trundled down over time from what I have now dubbed the Balls Wall, the first small cliff encountered as you ascend the mountain. The rock climbs well, offering mostly bolted face climbing, but there are a couple worthy cracks as well. The Balls Wall is your typical unimpressive looking cliff that offers surprisingly good rock and routes. Though small, it is worth a good day of climbing for the 5.11 leader.
Follow FR 111 for about 2.4 miles. Just past a sharp right turn you will drive beneath the small cliff on your left. Park without blocking the road and walk 150 feet up the steep hill to the cliff. This is also the parking for The Balls, the two massive boulders located in the pines 100 feet beneath the road.
Browse More Classics in Balls Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Balls Wall:
Gobiphobia 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 85 feet
Crackle 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Smoked Turkey 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Cactus Amongstus 5.11a Sport, 45 feet
Easy Skunkin' 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Skinky Reggae -aka Snake Legs 5.11c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet
Pop 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet
Featured Route For Balls Wall