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Broken Ankle Boulder
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Balls and Chains 
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Balls and Chains 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 11'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,334
Submitted By: Kegan Minock on Nov 1, 2011

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Description 

Start left on the 2 rocks hanging from the wall, move right to the perfect circle sloper, and go straight up.


Location 

This is on the Broken Ankle Boulder, across the river, north of the Creekside Boulders before the river makes the big ... before the dam.


Protection 

A pad or 2 and maybe a spotter.



Comments on Balls and Chains Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 10, 2012
By Tom Hanson
Nov 3, 2011

Where are the Broken Ankle and Snowstorm Boulders?

By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Nov 7, 2011

Hey Tom, so I stumbled across this area a few weeks ago. I am sure I did not FA all of these routes nor did I "find" these boulders, but I cannot find any info on them whatsoever. Maybe you can help, I put these problems up just to have them here, and I would love to be corrected. They are across the river and up in the trees from where the main trail has that switchback with the wooden stairs south of the dam. If you have any info on these climbs, I am more than willing to fix my mistakes.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 8, 2011

That narrows it to a couple hundred meters of the canyon. Are you talking east of South Canyon point?

By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Nov 8, 2011

Ha sorry. So I looked at a map of CWC, and it looks like I was north of the Creekside Boulders before the river makes the big ... before the dam.

By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Nov 15, 2011

Hey Kegan - I am confused too where these boulders are. Below is a link to a Google satellite map with a few of the major boulders mapped on it along with the trails. I have highlighted a large red area which I believe is the location you are talking about for these boulders.

maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=203858300141676234019.00000111e>>>

By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Nov 16, 2011

Ok, that helped a lot. It looks like I was up in the trees by the Creekside Boulders. Any info on these problems? Like I said, I don't believe I was the first to climb them, I just cannot find any info on them. Next time I am out there, I'll take some pictures to help clear up the confusion.

By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Nov 22, 2011

I know there is a boulder that has a ton of large pebbles on it but not super tall up there. Bob Horan has it labeled as the Bubble Rock or something like that in his latest book.

By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Dec 2, 2011

So, I forgot I had a video of all the climbs. All the grades names and "FAs" are subjective seeing as how I am finding I did not discover these. Not sure how to post video here, but if you go to youtube and search for cwc bouldering, it should be the first video. It's about 8 minutes long. Hope this helps.

By Andy Librande
From: Denver, CO
Dec 19, 2011

Hey Keagan - nice video. I would expect the majority of those problems have been done before. Maybe one or two of the variations have not been done, but those specific boulders/lines have been climbed on for years. Not sure if any of them were ever given specific names though.

From what I can tell, if there is an new FA in Castlewood, it is some obscure boulder buried deep in the trees or climbing a variation.

Otherwise nice video, those are some fun blocks. Looks like you did a couple problems that I have not tried and will need to hope on in the future.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Dec 20, 2011

Part of the charm about CWC bouldering is that a big majority of what can be hopped on is not recorded. Tom and I have found unclimbed stuff every time we've gone on a sidehill bushwhack boulder hunt; although the last time we did that was 3 years ago. General key to whether someone has been there before you is if you're brushing lichens and pebbles off of the obvious holds, you've got an FA; if the holds are only dusty probably not.
And there's still a good hundred epic problems TBD if people want to explore the X territory; which can usually be managed by rigging up rope pro from above. I predict that someday a wave of scary sends will be reported by a new generation there.

By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
Feb 10, 2012

Right on, sorry for all of the mix-ups. I'll fix the FAs on my climbs.