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Work up the leftmost chimney, the top of which you should protect with a nut. The first bolt is on the left face of the crag, about 35 ft off the ground. Climb the arete past the first and second bolts, and protect the obvious down-and-to-the-right slanting crack below the third bolt with a medium sized nut. An easy mantle after the 3rd bolt gains the chains.
Descent: Abseil or walk off (walk off goes up the hill a bit, then to the left--there's a decent trail).
This is the first route you get to from the trail, and it uses the left face of the wall, as well as the arete.
2 nut placements
2 chains on top
By Josh Kornish
From: Eugene, OR
Jun 10, 2013
Called 'Ballet Zone' 5.9
Variation up left and up from first to second bolt called Ragtime 5.10
A #2 protects the lower section