Start off with the big reach on small but good crimps. More of the same as you get higher. Crux comes about half way up off of very small foot holds on slabby crimpers. Be aware, there is a small chockstone a little past midway that is unavoidable (as far as I can tell) for both hand and foot holds. It seems secure but messes with your head.
This alcove is around to the right and faces the opposite direction as the main face. To get their hike as you would to the main face but continue up the scree and talus field instead of taking the trail right. Pass the very steep wall with 4 routes on it, right after take a sharp left in the alcove. You canít miss it. This route is the third to the right (going left to right).
5 bolts and anchors chains. It shares anchors with the route to the right.
|By Royce Simpson|
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is a super fun short line with moderate difficulty edging for the first third, then a crimper side pull crux that gets you into a nice finger crack before the anchors. As far as I can tell from the descriptions of the other routes in the Alcove, this is the third (and last) line from left to right. The one left of this is Inyerbuttkwa (10+), then left of that is County Line (5.8).
I'm not sure about the 11+ rating. I'll cast my vote for mid 10.
|By Kevin Landolt|
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
May 22, 2011
Excellent route! Technical climbing on small edges between good rests; and on pretty good rock. I'd say 11a redpoint - 11b onsight. It's funny how face/slab route gradings work. Go climb Origional Sin in Eve's Cave (10c) - and then Red Hot Space Suit (12b) at the Palace to get an idea of just how subjective the ratings sytem can be.
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Delicate and dynamic moves, the only regret I have is that it was so short! It's fun to watch people hit this route too, it really does look like a ballet....
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 10, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
So much fun! The crux for me was after my feet had to leave the small horizontal crack/ledge. It was pulling on sharp crimps and smearing feet from there. I found that a little flexibility makes this route very doable!
Aug 18, 2014
Super fun. Technically difficult, but physically not much tougher than 10c/d. I felt the 10c next to it was harder than this climb (pumpier at least).