|Whiskey Peak - East
Just to the right of the S-shaped crack of Lazy Buttress, there is a ramp leading up and to the right.
Pitch 1: Easy climbing leads up the ramp, past an unnecessary belay station to a left-facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral, passing another unnecessary bolt, and belay at its top.
Pitch 2: Climb up about fifteen feet to a slightly bulging headwall. A 5.7 move over the overhang leads to beautiful and easy face climbing. The knobby face leads upward to two overhangs. The easiest route passes the lower overhang on the left and continues up the slab to a good belay ledge. This pitch is almost 60 meters in length. (The higher overhang has harder climbing and less protection.)
Pitch 3: Either go straight up on easy climbing to Lovers' Ledge, or bear to the left and join the Lazy Buttress where it goes over the 5.6 overhang.
Small to number 3 cam
BETA PHOTO: A: Microbrew; B: Schaeffer's Delight@SEM...
BETA PHOTO: The horrible rappel stance down the gully!
BETA PHOTO: The route takes the left facing corner system in t...
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 13, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This is a pretty good route. The bolt in the dihedral is indeed unnecessary, and more to the point, it is difficult to clip- not even sure why it was placed there. Although the roof on the second pitch looks intimidating, the moves and holds are positive. Make sure to sling your pro quite long here, lest rope drag stop you in the middle of the unprotected (yet easy) climbing above.
From: Ventura, CA
Nov 26, 2006
I used the dihedral bolt to bail off after re-leading part way to retrieve a stuck rope. Rope got stuck right across from that bolt twice. I figured that's what it was there for :). I just love the three different descriptions and ratings for this climb (Supertopo, Brock, here)!
Dec 8, 2006
I am not usually one to say chop-chop, but "the bolt" is absolutely not needed.
Many many sound traditional placements are nearby.
|By George Wilson|
From: Las Vegas
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Seems like we did a variation of the second pitch...From the anchors above the dihedral, my partner trended right of the overhang toward and over the half arch onto sandy white face. This line had virtually no pro and was very lose. It was about 200' and ended at a huge belay ledge, to the right of the ledge with a huge boulder on it. This left us with simple climbing to lovers ledge. Fun day!
|By Anthony Baraff|
From: Paris, France
Apr 8, 2009
Be careful not to get your rope stuck on rappel both when you drop it and when you pull it. In addition to having a big rope eating crack the length of the climb, there's a spot where a little pod in the crack forms a perfect spot for any twist in the rope to lock into.
|By Richard Shore|
Sep 30, 2010
like the poster above, I also had to relead part of the route to retrieve a stuck rope in the dihedral. Bailed off the "unnecessary bolt." Maybe it is necessary after all, since it seems to be right where the rope sticks