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Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles)
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Chocolate Factory
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A.L.F. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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ABR S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Andy Man Can, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Atomic Fireballs S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Augustus Gloop S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Babinski Sign S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ball Nuts and Brassies (Aka Broken Ankles) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Bathed in Light S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Big Friendly Giant, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bleak December S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Breakin the Law S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Butane Junky S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Buttercup S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Butterface S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Candy Man, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Cats' Demise S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Charlie T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Chocolate Myotis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chocolate River S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chocolatier S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Chonky Chocolate S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chonky Chocolate (Direct start) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Climactic Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cookie Monster S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Crimp My Ride S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dainty Butterfly, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Death by Chocolate S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Dew Point T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Divine Punishment S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Easy Pickins T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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EGBG S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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End of Innocence T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Enkidu S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eternal Fire S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Fatface S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Fatman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Fickelgruber T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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For Your Health S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gene Wilder S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Giant Peach, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Gilgamesh S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Glass Elevator, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gobstopper S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Golden chocobo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Golden Ticket S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Grandma Josephine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grandpa Joe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grumpalump S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hip to the Jive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hookah S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Icebreaker S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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J Rat's Back S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Juggernaut, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Keepin it Real S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Kentucky Grape Vine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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King of the Rhodo T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Limbic System S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Loompa S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Loverface S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
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Malice S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Meh T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mike Teavee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Molten S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Mr. P. S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Naked S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Nasal Nuggets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nutter Butter S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Old School Chocolate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Side Makes You Taller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Oompa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Open Project S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Peaches and Cream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Perfect Puzzle V2 5+ |
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Pure Imagination S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Robotic Thumb S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scarlet Scorchdropper S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Shootin' Hot Hugs S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Silky Smooth S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Snarf Victory S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Snozzberries S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Spinal Tap S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Squirrelworker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stalker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Storm Gutter T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Strongyloides T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sugar Rush S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sunday Night Cockfights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Swedish Fish S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Team Tough on Tour S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Theobroma S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Three Stooges S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Throbbing Emotions S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Through the Looking Glass T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Toxicodendron S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twinkie's Little Sister S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Veruca Salt S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Violet Beauregarde S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Willy Wonka S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wobbler S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Wonkaholic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Dan Beck 2012 |
| Page Views: | 1,567 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Blake Allen Green on Feb 6, 2014 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.
Description
Begin through easy terrain up to a stance in a hueco beside the crack. Watch out for some flexing holds pulling into the hueco. Boulder out left on the crack, primarily using it as a face hold. A thank God jug appears 3/4 of the way through the crack, and from here, go straight up. The guidebook indicates going all the way to the end of the crack, then traversing right. This way seems harder, harder to protect, and more contrived. From the jug, it is possible to move straight up through face holds and enjoyable climbing. This route will be much better once all the friable holds have been kicked off, as I managed to remove several footholds both times on the route.
Protection
1 set TCU/Master cams and 1 Set micro wires, maybe some medium stoppers. Bolted Anchors
Despite the name, do not let this route scare you! All of the pro is really good, the crux section being protected by a textbook 0. That being said, if any placements are skipped upon leaving the hueco, you could be moving yourself into some R rated territory. I took the whip at the crux my first time on the route and came nowhere near colliding with the "ramp" feature; the wall is sufficiently overhung and well protected as to avoid this. Small cams sufficed much better through the hard climbing than micro wires.
Despite the name, do not let this route scare you! All of the pro is really good, the crux section being protected by a textbook 0. That being said, if any placements are skipped upon leaving the hueco, you could be moving yourself into some R rated territory. I took the whip at the crux my first time on the route and came nowhere near colliding with the "ramp" feature; the wall is sufficiently overhung and well protected as to avoid this. Small cams sufficed much better through the hard climbing than micro wires.
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