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Ball Doctor 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,994
Submitted By: BrianWinslow on Apr 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Praying that my feet don't slip

Description 

Stand start in a small scoop with an upside down left hand and a high right foot. Slap out right to the rounded arete and work your way up to the ball (a high sloper) then up small crystals to the top. The crux is beta, and I don't have much to offer, but it's fun none the less.

Location 

When the trail splits (at a small cairn) go to the left. Ball Dr. is on the first big boulder you will see (about 200 feet from the split) and is on the left of the trail. The route is on the left rounded arete as you approach the boulder. It is the first problem left of the tree.

Protection 

Pads, spotters. There are some small ankle twisters in the ground so two or three pads are recommended.


Photos of Ball Doctor Slideshow Add Photo
Ball Doctor
Ball Doctor
My first time on Ball Doctor, without any beta <3
My first time on Ball Doctor, without any beta <...

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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 11, 2007
rating: V6 7A

The boulder it is on is usually refered to as the Hero Block in guidebooks and by locals.
The start to this problem isn't bad but the upper portion is heinous and filled with friction dependent holds.
Only get on this route when the friction is perfect!
Cool problem to tick.
By Tristan Perry
May 11, 2007
rating: V5 6C

This problem has got to be one of the best in the Park! It's highly technical and super slopey at the top, but it certain places offer great friction. The beta can be hard to figure out at the bottom, but I guess it's generally laid out in the description. This is by far the best problem on a boulder full of good lines. Four stars.
By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Feb 7, 2008
rating: V5 6C

There is a sit-start to this problem that adds 3 or 4 moves and bumps the grade up slightly (V6/7). Using a right hand undercling and a left hand crimp (usually a foothold), smear both feet in the corner, pop out left to a jug, then bump up the arete with the right hand. Get your left foot up and then drop into the backhand pinch (crux) where the stand up version starts. Continue as for the stand.
By Eric8
From: Framingham
May 8, 2011

Awesome! my favorite in the park so far feels like v5 moves with v6 beta to me...
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 17, 2012
rating: V5+ 6C+

Beta, if you want it...footage of 'Ball Doctor' starts at 2:21