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Take Apart the Robots 
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That's Entertainment 
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You're Fired! 

Balin Goes to Hollywood 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: GSm, Michael Jimerson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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Description 

A fun, sustained route that packs a lot of good climbing into the first pitch. Begin off the same small, high ledge as for Sudden Death. Look for the attractive, set of shallow, white left-facing corners that indicate the start. The last third of the first pitch and the entire second pitch are not worth doing, and the anchor station located just above the crux dihedral is the recommended belay/lowering station. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)


Protection 

Pro to 3", anchors.


location 

See Squeezing the Lemmon.



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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.

Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected all-trad pitch on good rock. 2 stars at least if done this way.