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Wall of the Trundling Trolls
Routes Sorted
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All Things Considered 
Balin Goes to Hollywood 
Best of Both Worlds 
Business as Usual 
Chicken Little 
Dead Precedents 
Digital Alarm 
Do You Want to Live Forever? 
Fear of Lurking 
Few Species 
Flexible Flyer 
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy 
Hall of the Mountain King 
Hostile Takeover 
Hung Like a Troll 
Hyper Sloth 
If I Had a Hammer 
Internet Troll 
Jerk Whisperer, The 
Oppositional Defiance Disorder 
Player Hater's Club 
Run Like Hell 
Sky is Falling, The 
Slip Service 
Slot, The 
Smoke and Mirrors 
Spew Feces 
Stalker, The 
Stranger in a Strange Land 
Sudden Death 
Take Apart the Robots 
Talk of the Nation 
Tao of Choy, The 
That's Entertainment 
You're Fired! 

Balin Goes to Hollywood 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: GSm, Michael Jimerson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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A fun, sustained route that packs a lot of good climbing into the first pitch. Begin off the same small, high ledge as for Sudden Death. Look for the attractive, set of shallow, white left-facing corners that indicate the start. The last third of the first pitch and the entire second pitch are not worth doing, and the anchor station located just above the crux dihedral is the recommended belay/lowering station. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)


Pro to 3", anchors.


See Squeezing the Lemmon.

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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.

Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected all-trad pitch on good rock. 2 stars at least if done this way.