|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||GSm, Michael Jimerson|
|Season:||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Submitted By:||Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008|
|Comments on Balin Goes to Hollywood||Add Comment|
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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.
Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected all-trad pitch on good rock. 2 stars at least if done this way.