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 ADVANCED
Wall of the Trundling Trolls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All Things Considered S 
Asgard T 
Balin Goes to Hollywood T 
Best of Both Worlds T 
Business as Usual T 
Chicken Little S 
Dead Precedents T 
Digital Alarm T 
Do You Want to Live Forever? T 
Eggashegadrae T 
Fear of Lurking S 
Few Species T 
Flexible Flyer T 
Furchrissakes T 
Gully T 
Hairlip BJ Ecstasy T 
Hall of the Mountain King T 
Hostile Takeover T 
Hung Like a Troll T 
Hyper Sloth T 
If I Had a Hammer T 
Internet Troll T 
Jerk Whisperer, The S 
Loki T 
Oppositional Defiance Disorder T 
Player Hater's Club T 
Run Like Hell T 
Sidebottom T 
Sky is Falling, The S 
Slip Service S 
Slot, The T 
Smoke and Mirrors S 
Spew Feces T 
Stalker, The T 
Stranger in a Strange Land S 
Sudden Death T 
Take Apart the Robots T 
Talk of the Nation S 
Tao of Choy, The T 
That's Entertainment T 
Trollkind T 
Tyr T 
Unforgiven T 
Vahalla T 
You're Fired! T 

Balin Goes to Hollywood 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: GSm, Michael Jimerson
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Scott Ayers on Aug 8, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

A fun, sustained route that packs a lot of good climbing into the first pitch. Begin off the same small, high ledge as for Sudden Death. Look for the attractive, set of shallow, white left-facing corners that indicate the start. The last third of the first pitch and the entire second pitch are not worth doing, and the anchor station located just above the crux dihedral is the recommended belay/lowering station. (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 1 out of 3 stars.)

Protection 

Pro to 3", anchors.

location 

See Squeezing the Lemmon.


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By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first 25 feet of this route have good climbing, but questionable pro in friable rock.

Instead, I recommend starting on "That's Entertainment" for 30 feet or so, then (instead of continuing up to the bolted section on that route) moving up and left on intricate moves with less than obvious, but good gear in very good rock, into the upper V-corner of "Balin..." P1 (the description above calls this corner the crux). This yields a sustained, challenging, tricky to protect but well-protected all-trad pitch on good rock. 2 stars at least if done this way.