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Bale/Kramar route
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.2 from 48 votes
Type: | Trad, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 1995 |
Page Views: | 5,334 total · 42/month |
Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Oct 15, 2013 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Pitch 1, the crux is getting off the ground. There used to be a flake on the left that fell off making the start rather stiff. You can belay at the bolted anchor 40'( it is nice to leave the rack for the start and either haul it up from the first anchor and continue, or haul it so the second does not have to do the boulder problem with the weight.) up or continue up mossy gully to leftward traverse to the anchors at the base of the 2nd pitch( guide book calls this 5.9, maybe 10b now for the boulder start. I guess I would say if you are at least 6' tall it is 10b, hard to figure out but not very hard, if you are shorter it is very hard, maybe 5.11.
Pitch 2, cruxy face climb through bolts. (10a) some small cams too
Pitch 3, sustained hand and finger crack- classic! (10b) save a #3 or #4 for the top out- easy OW.
Pitch 4, fun 5.9 , directly above anchor at top of 3rd pitch, can be wet early season at the start. Mostly bolts with some cam placements. Crux mid way up layback up side pulls and crimpy.
The Heave Ho route around the corner is another great 4th pitch option.
Pitch 2, cruxy face climb through bolts. (10a) some small cams too
Pitch 3, sustained hand and finger crack- classic! (10b) save a #3 or #4 for the top out- easy OW.
Pitch 4, fun 5.9 , directly above anchor at top of 3rd pitch, can be wet early season at the start. Mostly bolts with some cam placements. Crux mid way up layback up side pulls and crimpy.
The Heave Ho route around the corner is another great 4th pitch option.
Location
This is the 1st route on the left side of Careno Crag. Small cleft in the face behind maples with a bolt with a tricky boulder move. You can rap off to the right to the top of the Regular route, and then walk off on ledges to the NE, or rap down the Regular route, or walk around corner and rap down Bale Kramar after the 1st rap off the regular route.
Protection
gear to 3". 3 bolts on 1st pitch,2nd and 4th pitches have 6 bolts each.
All bolted anchors. The anchor at the top of pitch 4 may have slings, but no chain, and it would be a long rappel ( 70m rope would work). We traversed over to just above the top of the Regular route and is a single rope rappel. It may be hard to spot, below and east or right of the top out, requires a walk on level with top out till a rap station is found that is easy yet exposed.
All bolted anchors. The anchor at the top of pitch 4 may have slings, but no chain, and it would be a long rappel ( 70m rope would work). We traversed over to just above the top of the Regular route and is a single rope rappel. It may be hard to spot, below and east or right of the top out, requires a walk on level with top out till a rap station is found that is easy yet exposed.
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