Type: Trad, Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches
FA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 1995
Page Views: 5,334 total · 42/month
Shared By: Geoff Georges on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1, the crux is getting off the ground. There used to be a flake on the left that fell off making the start rather stiff. You can belay at the bolted anchor 40'( it is nice to leave the rack for the start and either haul it up from the first anchor and continue, or haul it so the second does not have to do the boulder problem with the weight.) up or continue up mossy gully to leftward traverse to the anchors at the base of the 2nd pitch( guide book calls this 5.9, maybe 10b now for the boulder start. I guess I would say if you are at least 6' tall it is 10b, hard to figure out but not very hard, if you are shorter it is very hard, maybe 5.11.

Pitch 2, cruxy face climb through bolts. (10a) some small cams too

Pitch 3, sustained hand and finger crack- classic! (10b) save a #3 or #4 for the top out- easy OW.

Pitch 4, fun 5.9 , directly above anchor at top of 3rd pitch, can be wet early season at the start. Mostly bolts with some cam placements. Crux mid way up layback up side pulls and crimpy.
The Heave Ho route around the corner is another great 4th pitch option.

Location Suggest change

This is the 1st route on the left side of Careno Crag. Small cleft in the face behind maples with a bolt with a tricky boulder move. You can rap off to the right to the top of the Regular route, and then walk off on ledges to the NE, or rap down the Regular route, or walk around corner and rap down Bale Kramar after the 1st rap off the regular route.

Protection Suggest change

gear to 3". 3 bolts on 1st pitch,2nd and 4th pitches have 6 bolts each.
All bolted anchors. The anchor at the top of pitch 4 may have slings, but no chain, and it would be a long rappel ( 70m rope would work). We traversed over to just above the top of the Regular route and is a single rope rappel. It may be hard to spot, below and east or right of the top out, requires a walk on level with top out till a rap station is found that is easy yet exposed.

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