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Elevation: 5,168 ft
GPS: 43.8941, -103.4624
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 25,013 total · 125/month
Shared By: Josh Dreher on Oct 31, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty
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Description Suggest change

Baldy's Lil-Brother has some of the highest quality rock in the Mt. Rushmore region and a large quantity of problems V6 and up. Potential for new problems is still very available, especially highball problems with questionable landings: far left arete to the left of Outer Space (HARD!!!), far right side of the Bicep Wall (V4? Death Landing!), the entire face with Curt Love Problem on it, etc. Bring lots of pads.

Getting There Suggest change

Click "aerial photo" and then pull up on the map and a green pointer is right on the area.

Trails have not been established so please tread lightly. When hiking to the backside of Old Baldy (on your way to Irie Heights) you will come across a trail running perpendicular to the one you are walking on (this trail will eventually lead to the Organ Donor trail). Turn left on this trail and follow it (roughly 5-7 minutes) until you can see a large formation on your right(located another 70 or so yrd's past The Banshee Boulder) hidden high in the trees. If you head around the right side of the formation you will run into The Fat Lady area. If you go to the left side you should run into the Outer Space area. High, on the backside of this formation are the Mountain Top boulders.

When standing in front of the Fleshwound boulder while facing away from Old Baldy, the formation directly in front of you is Baldy's Lil-Brother.

If you have any questions about how to get there or about any of the problems, send me a message.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Baldy's Lil-Brother

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V6 7A
 15
● The Banshee
Boulder
Banshee Boulder
V6 7A
 6
● The Goat
Boulder
Banshee Boulder
V6 7A
 8
● The Fat Lady
Boulder
Fat Lady
V6 7A
 4
● Crystal Meth (stand)
Boulder
Mtn Top > Quartz Cave
V7 7A+
 5
● T.M.T.
Boulder
Mtn Top > Bicep Wall
V8 7B
 4
● The Wench Pinch
Boulder
Fat Lady
V9 7C
 5
● Bicep Traverse
Boulder
Mtn Top > Bicep Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Banshee Banshee Boulder
 15
V6 7A Boulder
● The Goat Banshee Boulder
 6
V6 7A Boulder
● The Fat Lady Fat Lady
 8
V6 7A Boulder
● Crystal Meth (stand) Mtn Top > Quartz Cave
 4
V6 7A Boulder
● T.M.T. Mtn Top > Bicep Wall
 5
V7 7A+ Boulder
● The Wench Pinch Fat Lady
 4
V8 7B Boulder
● Bicep Traverse Mtn Top > Bicep Wall
 5
V9 7C Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Baldy's Lil-Brother »

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The pinch/crimp cross move near the beginning of the problem.
The pinch/crimp cross move near the beginning o…
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