The pinch/crimp cross move near the beginning of t...
Baldy's Lil-Brother has some of the highest quality rock in the Mt. Rushmore region and a large quantity of problems V6 and up. Potential for new problems is still very available, especially highball problems with questionable landings: far left arete to the left of Outer Space (HARD!!!), far right side of the Bicep Wall (V4? Death Landing!), the entire face with Curt Love Problem on it, etc. Bring lots of pads.
Click "aerial photo" and then pull up on the map and a green pointer is right on the area.
Trails have not been established so please tread lightly. When hiking to the backside of Old Baldy (on your way to Irie Heights) you will come across a trail running perpendicular to the one you are walking on (this trail will eventually lead to the Organ Donor trail). Turn left on this trail and follow it (roughly 5-7 minutes) until you can see a large formation on your right(located another 70 or so yrd's past The Banshee Boulder) hidden high in the trees. If you head around the right side of the formation you will run into The Fat Lady area. If you go to the left side you should run into the Outer Space area. High, on the backside of this formation are the Mountain Top boulders.
When standing in front of the Fleshwound boulder while facing away from Old Baldy, the formation directly in front of you is Baldy's Lil-Brother.
If you have any questions about how to get there or about any of the problems, send me a message.
Climbing Season For the Mount Rushmore National Memorial area.
Weather station 1.0 miles from here
25 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Baldy's Lil-Brother
Logistics V8 7B SD
: Mount Rushmore National Mem...
: ... : The Bicep Wall
Wish I would have eyed this one first! One of the most diverse boulder problems in the Black Hills. Starts with your right hand on the obvious low edge in the middle of the face and left on a very small pinch. Get a bad heel hook and head up into the finish of the Bicep Traverse. If your heel doesn't stick on the first move, try on another shoe. This turned out to be the key for the first and second ascents. The best problem on the wall and one of the best problems in the Old Baldy vicinity!!!...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
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