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Bald Eagle 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Team Sofa King Rad
New Route: Yes
Season: Autumn (or whenever they lift the seasonal closure)
Page Views: 1,569
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 17, 2010
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T-Shred above the "V-Eagle" opener on Bald Eagle, ...
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  • Description 

    Bald Eagle is the right variant start to Barely Eagle, linking into that climb at the fourth bolt. It climbs past three half-inch bolts in the bulge/roof right off the ledge, above a left-facing dihedral.

    Clip a low bolt, power to a sidepull, clip again, then engage a "V-Eagle" boulder problem through the pegmatite band to reach the jug rail below the third clip. Hint: think opposition and heel-powered jessery.

    Stand up past the rail to mellower terrain, then follow the last four bolts of Barely Eagle, up its crux headwall. Try hard not to fall off Barely Eagle, since you've done a passel o' hard moves to get there.

    We plan to move the second bolt about a foot higher and have the hole halfway drilled (drill ran out of juice), so will be back soon to relocate that clip. As it is now, the fall going for the rail might bring you near the bottom ledge, but you should be OK with an attentive belay.


    Location 

    This is six feet right of Barely Eagle's first bolt; six feet left of the start of Golden Eagle.


    Protection 

    Seven bolts to double-bolt anchors.



    Photos of Bald Eagle Slideshow Add Photo
    The Bald Eagle, a noble and majestic bird of prey.
    The Bald Eagle, a noble and majestic bird of prey.
    The beautiful and proud Bald Eagle.
    The beautiful and proud Bald Eagle.
    Comments on Bald Eagle Add Comment
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    By Pinklebear
    Oct 17, 2010

    And for all you boulderer-types who hate to get pumped, there is a fine link-up Finally Eagle (13a) that engages the first three bolts on Bald Eagle, and then heads right into the 5.11d Golden Eagle.

    By Taylor Roy
    From: Boulder, Co
    Sep 16, 2012
    rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

    WARNING!!! Beware of the nut on the fourth bolt. It has a way of unscrewing itself.