Bald Eagle  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.13b [details] FA:  Team Sofa King Rad New Route:  Yes Season:  Autumn (or whenever they lift the seasonal closure) Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Oct 17, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

T-Shred above the "V-Eagle" opener on Bald Eagle, ...

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Lifted Early at Eagle Rock MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure has been lifted at Security Risk and Eagle Rock as of April 16, 2013. The closure is still in effect at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Bald Eagle is the right variant start to Barely Eagle, linking into that climb at the fourth bolt. It climbs past three half-inch bolts in the bulge/roof right off the ledge, above a left-facing dihedral.

Clip a low bolt, power to a sidepull, clip again, then engage a "V-Eagle" boulder problem through the pegmatite band to reach the jug rail below the third clip. Hint: think opposition and heel-powered jessery.

Stand up past the rail to mellower terrain, then follow the last four bolts of Barely Eagle, up its crux headwall. Try hard not to fall off Barely Eagle, since you've done a passel o' hard moves to get there.

We plan to move the second bolt about a foot higher and have the hole halfway drilled (drill ran out of juice), so will be back soon to relocate that clip. As it is now, the fall going for the rail might bring you near the bottom ledge, but you should be OK with an attentive belay.

Location 

This is six feet right of Barely Eagle's first bolt; six feet left of the start of Golden Eagle.

Protection 

Seven bolts to double-bolt anchors.

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The Bald Eagle, a noble and majestic bird of prey.

The beautiful and proud Bald Eagle.