Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Balcony Rock
Patagonia Men's Conifer Parka

$399.00 29% off

$279.30

at Patagonia

36    more...
El Capitan Haul Bag

$219.00 20% off

$175.20

at CampSaver

6    more...
Black Diamond - Raven Pro Ice Axe

$99.95 20% off

$79.96

at GearX

   more...
Scarpa Vapor V Climbing Shoe - Women's

$138.95 39% off

$83.37

at Backcountry

66    more...
Patagonia Women's Knifeblade Pullover

$349.00 29% off

$244.30

at Patagonia

119    more...
Metolius Ultralight Power Cam #4 Red

$59.99 25% off

$44.99

at AlsSports

19    more...
Mammut Phoenix SuperDry Climbing Rope - 8mm

$199.95 42% off

$115.97

at Backcountry

28    more...
Badlands Ox Hunting Pack

$599.99 33% off

$399.99

at AlsSports

2    more...
 more Dirtbag Deals

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crown Of Thorns 
Gold Medallist 
Popeye's 
Popeye's Left 
Thumb Press 
Thumb Press Right 
Train Song 

Balcony Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 113'
Lat, Long: 39.3249, -77.7179 Map
Page Views: 676. Good page?   
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 


Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...

Description 

Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.


Getting There 

Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.

Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Balcony Rock:
Train Song   5.9+     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   
Popeye's   5.10b     Trad, TR   
Gold Medallist   5.10b     Trad, TR   
Browse More Classics in Balcony Rock

Featured Route For Balcony Rock
Good, fun climbing. You can do either a face route or stay more left and do an arete/crack route.

Train Song 5.9+  MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Rock
To the right of the main cliff and sort of uphill on a second tier/platform is a stand alone face. It is approximately 50 feet to the right of Popeyes. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD


Photos of Balcony Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with rope hanging off gear/bolt anchor.

Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...

About the center of the main wall looking left (west). Follow this trail up to top of route to place gear TR anchor.

About the center of the main wall looking left (we...

View of top from the trail. Down and to the right reaches the bolt.

View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...

View of anchor as you approach.

View of anchor as you approach.

Bolt on top of main wall.

Bolt on top of main wall.

Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner only. Still a good idea to back this sucker up & use your own hardware to TR off of.

Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...

This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.

This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.

View of the crag from down-trail.

View of the crag from down-trail.

Another view from down-trail.

Another view from down-trail.

Approach trail from above.

Approach trail from above.

Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.

Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.

View of trail from road.

View of trail from road.

View of trail from road.

View of trail from road.

Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gate.

Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...


Comments on Balcony Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Conrad S.
Nov 29, 2012

The latitude and longitude for the main cliff in this area is 39.324927, -77.717871
It looks like the original author didn't add this information. Can someone who knows how or has authorization add a map point for this area based on these coordinates?