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DescriptionJust West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day. Getting ThereBalcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Balcony Rock:
Train Song 5.9+ TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Popeye's 5.10b Trad, TR
Gold Medallist 5.10b Trad, TR
Featured Route For Balcony Rock
Train Song 5.9+ MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Rock
To the right of the main cliff and sort of uphill on a second tier/platform is a stand alone face. It is approximately 50 feet to the right of Popeyes. ...[more] Browse More Classics in MD
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