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Balcony Rock

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Crown Of Thorns T,TR 
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Train Song TR 

Balcony Rock 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 113'
Location: 39.3249, -77.7179 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,259
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Phil Westcott on Mar 17, 2012
Forecast:
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Balcony Rock with the rope hanging on the bolt/gea...

Description 

Just West of Sandy Hook, Maryland is Balcony Rock, one of the areas tallest routes (around 80 feet) on dense, vertical and surprisingly clean rock. This area is surrounded by boulders that seems to be frequented a bit more than the rope climbing but I can not be certain. With that said, this is a fairly local crag that will rarely see more than one climbing party in a day.


Getting There 

Balcony Rock is about 100 yards west of the School Bus turnaround down the road (West/towards Maryland Heights Proper) from town of Sandy Hook. Some say this turnaround can be used as parking on weekends, but the easiest thing to do is park down in the gravel by the Railroad lights closer to town - only a few hundred yards before the turnaround. If you do choose to park in the turnaround, don't attempt this risky move during the week and be mindful of those in town who daily use this as a turnaround.

Regardless of where you park, with the river on your left, walk until you get to two gates, follow the obvious trail with awesome stone steps to the right of these two gates. PLEASE use the stepped approach to reduce the risk of erosion, which we all know leads to access issues.


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',1],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Balcony Rock:
Popeye's   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, TR   
Browse More Classics in Balcony Rock

Featured Route For Balcony Rock
A look at the base of Popeye up through the roof. Very fun 5.10b!

Popeye's 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Rock
Climb the white-streaked black rock using occasionally good holds to a small roof. Undercling in the crack to reach a pair of "bucket" holds, kick a little bit and reach up to another flat hold in order to get fully past the roof. The fun isn't over. Climb up non-trivial rock past the bolt to a wide ledge. From here you can either trend left (5.10a), go straight up past two old bolts (no hangers; 5.10+), or step right and work your way up the blockier stuff (5.8). Finish the last moves...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Balcony Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with rope hanging off gear/bolt anchor.
Bottom half of previous image. Balcony Rock with r...
Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
Rock steps. Whoever built these did a great job.
About the center of the main wall looking left (west). Follow this trail up to top of route to place gear TR anchor.
About the center of the main wall looking left (we...
Another view from down-trail.
Another view from down-trail.
View of top from the trail. Down and to the right reaches the bolt.
View of top from the trail. Down and to the right ...
View of trail from road.
View of trail from road.
View of anchor as you approach.
View of anchor as you approach.
View of the crag from down-trail.
View of the crag from down-trail.
Bolt on top of main wall.
Bolt on top of main wall.
Approach trail from above.
Approach trail from above.
Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner only. Still a good idea to back this sucker up & use your own hardware to TR off of.
Close up of bolt. Fixie hardware. Rust on beaner o...
View of trail from road.
View of trail from road.
This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
This One inch crack helps with TR anchor.
Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gate.
Enter the trail about 20 feet before the first gat...
Comments on Balcony Rock Add Comment
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By Conrad S.
Nov 29, 2012

The latitude and longitude for the main cliff in this area is 39.324927, -77.717871
It looks like the original author didn't add this information. Can someone who knows how or has authorization add a map point for this area based on these coordinates?