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Bake Sale 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: The center face...

Description 

Hard for the grade!(for me)
Start on large rail (if you can hold on) in the middle of the face and try to move up to a cool pocket, change feet and climb up on flakes to topout that isn't bad.

This climb kills me...it looks so do-able but i just can't stick to the starting hold.

Location 

Central line on the Sorority Boulder.

Protection 

Pad.


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By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 11, 2008
rating: V4 6B

This is one of the biggest sandbags in Kemple's guide, so don't expect to even have a chance if you're just getting into the grade. Without a doubt, this problem is harder for shorter people. Here's how it goes... sit start with your left hand on a jagged crimp on the rail, a good right foot, and a tiny left foot. Match briefly on the rail to get off the ground, then gaston a tiny crimp with your right hand. Now look up. The three-finger pocket is only about 4 feet away, so dyno with your right hand and hopefully stick it without ripping your hand open. Make sure you pad the rock behind you. Get your feet back on, then follow nice incut crimps up the face (hopefully they don't rip off) and then topout with an easy mantle over the lip.
By Jesse Coburn
From: Manchester, NH
Jul 29, 2008

this route is so tough. i agree it is considerably sand bagged. the dynamic move to the pocket is super tough.
By burlap submariner
Dec 5, 2011

yup burly for sure, the start is very core oriented and it takes good balance to stick into the wall, a great blair sandbag.
By Mike Collins
Nov 30, 2013

glad to hear other people think this gets the big ol bag o sand because I found this hard today (did not send)
By Alec Woolley
From: Nottingham, NH
Mar 26, 2014
rating: V5 6C

This climb is great but definitely don't go into trying it thinking it's a v3. Even for climbs nearby, it is notoriously harder than any of the same grade and even grades harder. I wouldn't even argue if someone wanted to call it a v6. Aside for the sandbagging, definitely try this climb out.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 28, 2014
rating: V5 6C

I think this is the most sandbagged climb at Pway, if we were all honest with ourselves we would probably call it a v5, maybe harder. I would highly recommend this climb, great climb!
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Oct 31, 2014
rating: V5-6 6C+

I have to agree with everyone else on this one. Although I haven't done the problem I have tried it. Seeing as though there is a V3 just to the right of this problem that I did and I wasn't even able to reach the first holds on this one. I would say at least 2-3 grades harder. Someone that isn't 6ft or taller will have a hard time reaching those holds. All that being said it looks like a super fun problem and the top moves are really cool.