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Waterfront, The
Routes Sorted
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Acapulco Arete S 
Baja Breakdown T 
Barefoot in Barbados S,TR 
Certain Death T 
Chickenhead Holiday T 
Cold Duck T 
Comfort Zone S 
Disco Captain T,S 
Disco Chicken S,TR 
Disco Duck T 
Disco Lizard T,S 
Flirtin' Death T,S 
Flown the Coop S 
Gritman's Traverse T 
Head On T 
Just Hanging Out T 
Losing My Religion  T 
Mantels to Mazatlan S 
On the Waterfront T 
Seams Like the Seashore T 
Thin Slab S 
Tijuana Donkey Show T,TR 
Unknown T 
Waterfront Cave T 

Baja Breakdown 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown?
Page Views: 929
Submitted By: Arie on Jul 6, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Just past the brief slab moves.

Description 

Start about twenty five feet left (west) of the base of Barefoot in Barbados in a short right facing corner. Climb up and out following the corner for about 15 feet to a stance proximate a scrub tree. Continue up, passing a fixed pin, following the corner as it trends rightward requiring a couple of short slab moves as the corner crack thins. Here the corner heads back upward, and continuing as a fine layback (avoid the brush). A few more moves leads to a stance and gear belay below a blank steep section of rock.

Descent. Scramble east across ledgy but somewhat dangerous terrain to a small tree and rap from slings. The tree is clearly visible from the base of Barefoot and the slings used to have a locker, but is now MIA (presumed booteyd). EDIT: chains appeared in 2011(?) at the head of the left-hand variation allowing easier descent.

Location 

About 20-30 feet left of Barefoot- same elevation, in a somewhat hidden, right facing semi-dihedral.

Protection 

Same as always- Small LCC standard rack


Photos of Baja Breakdown Slideshow Add Photo
After the pin, climb to the really good undercling/pod, look up for the bolt and the jug to it's left and pull up.
After the pin, climb to the really good undercling...
Super fun sequence moving from the bolt to the next pin (there's one more bolt after that and then chains).
Super fun sequence moving from the bolt to the nex...

Comments on Baja Breakdown Add Comment
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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jul 6, 2009

If anyone has any additional information PM me and Ill update it. Due to the fading condition of the rap tree the climb would probably benefit from a set of chains- which I would be happy to install, but thought Id see if anyone had any previous info before breaking out the hammer. I first climbed this in fall 2005 and cleaned it up a bit- its probably regained some of its former grit and foliage. A couple of different variations have been done over the years... by others and myself...?
By zoso
May 14, 2013

We grabbed the jug after the fixed pin on the left leaving the initial dihedral. This way continues with 5.9ish moves with bolt, a suspect pin, an obvious small nut placement inches above the pin, bolt, pin, anchor.

Fun moves, but gritty and kinda grungy still. A good line otherwise.
By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Very worthwhile line with some heads up moves and small gear. I went for the OS lead and stuck to the seam/corner/dihedral. After climbing above the piton you traverse on thin slab moves over to the other end of the slab, pulling some delicate moves to gain the corner as it angles directly upward. Only the smallest brassies protect this, and only the opening moves of the next section. Unless you have doubles or triples in the smallest brassy sizes you're SOL for pro for a good ways, running it out above marginal micros.

I bailed on two OK nuts and a sling on a tree rather than finishing the rest of the wet pitch with bad/no gear. My buddy led the variation where, after climbing a few feet above the piton, you get a bomber pocket for a solid finger or two in the corner, then make a long reach for a small jug that allows you to swing up on top of the wall and clip a bolt. From there it's a few more 5.9 moves to chain anchors. This was much more fun, better climbing, and better protected.

And there are chain anchors now. With a 60 you can easily TR and rap the route. I'd honestly give this 3 stars if it was cleaner. I will be back soon to climb it again.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

The first two pitons can be backed up with ballnuts quite well. Much better than trusting some old iron.

Blowing the moves to the first bolt out on the left would result in a pretty nasty fall back into the dihedral, but it's fairly secure. The right finish is in need of serious gardening. Step left to the bolt and do the route that way, it's the superior finish.
By Alec
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Significantly more fun than I expected. Cruiser climbing up the dihedral to some really interesting stem/lieback moves at and above the bolt. Do it if you're in the area