Start about twenty five feet left (west) of the base of Barefoot in Barbados in a short right facing corner. Climb up and out following the corner for about 15 feet to a stance proximate a scrub tree. Continue up, passing a fixed pin, following the corner as it trends rightward requiring a couple of short slab moves as the corner crack thins. Here the corner heads back upward, and continuing as a fine layback (avoid the brush). A few more moves leads to a stance and gear belay below a blank steep section of rock.
Descent. Scramble east across ledgy but somewhat dangerous terrain to a small tree and rap from slings. The tree is clearly visible from the base of Barefoot and the slings used to have a locker, but is now MIA (presumed bootey’d). EDIT: chains appeared in 2011(?) at the head of the left-hand variation allowing easier descent.
About 20-30 feet left of Barefoot- same elevation, in a somewhat hidden, right facing semi-dihedral.
Same as always- Small LCC standard rack
After the pin, climb to the really good undercling...
Super fun sequence moving from the bolt to the nex...
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jul 6, 2009
If anyone has any additional information PM me and I’ll update it. Due to the fading condition of the rap tree the climb would probably benefit from a set of chains- which I would be happy to install, but thought I’d see if anyone had any previous info before breaking out the hammer. I first climbed this in fall 2005 and cleaned it up a bit- it’s probably regained some of its former grit and foliage. A couple of different variations have been done over the years... by others and myself...?
May 14, 2013
We grabbed the jug after the fixed pin on the left leaving the initial dihedral. This way continues with 5.9ish moves with bolt, a suspect pin, an obvious small nut placement inches above the pin, bolt, pin, anchor.
Fun moves, but gritty and kinda grungy still. A good line otherwise.
|By Sam Cannon|
From: Holladay, Utah
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very worthwhile line with some heads up moves and small gear. I went for the OS lead and stuck to the seam/corner/dihedral. After climbing above the piton you traverse on thin slab moves over to the other end of the slab, pulling some delicate moves to gain the corner as it angles directly upward. Only the smallest brassies protect this, and only the opening moves of the next section. Unless you have doubles or triples in the smallest brassy sizes you're SOL for pro for a good ways, running it out above marginal micros.
I bailed on two OK nuts and a sling on a tree rather than finishing the rest of the wet pitch with bad/no gear. My buddy led the variation where, after climbing a few feet above the piton, you get a bomber pocket for a solid finger or two in the corner, then make a long reach for a small jug that allows you to swing up on top of the wall and clip a bolt. From there it's a few more 5.9 moves to chain anchors. This was much more fun, better climbing, and better protected.
And there are chain anchors now. With a 60 you can easily TR and rap the route. I'd honestly give this 3 stars if it was cleaner. I will be back soon to climb it again.
|By Garret Nuzzo-Jones|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
The first two pitons can be backed up with ballnuts quite well. Much better than trusting some old iron.
Blowing the moves to the first bolt out on the left would result in a pretty nasty fall back into the dihedral, but it's fairly secure. The right finish is in need of serious gardening. Step left to the bolt and do the route that way, it's the superior finish.
Apr 30, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Significantly more fun than I expected. Cruiser climbing up the dihedral to some really interesting stem/lieback moves at and above the bolt. Do it if you're in the area