BaiWangShan does not have the best climbing or the most, but the fact that it can be reached in about an hour and at a cost of 15 RMB per person is its huge saving grace. I reccomend BaiWangShan to anyone looking for a shorter or cheaper alternative to the regular day-long BJ climbing trip since it is easy to make it a half-day trip.
BaiWangShan is a scenic area/park there is a 80 foot face on the NE face of the 'summit' of te hill (mountian if you are speaking Chin-glish, ke ke ke). The rock is good and there is space for about 10 climbs.
The first 10' of the face has been mechanically milled off there are artifical climbing holds on this part of the face and some chipped holds.
Getting There
You can take the 13 line to the ShanDi or XiErQi subway stations. ShanDi is farther away, but there is a direct bus from ShanDi to the park. XiErQi is closer if you plan on taking a taxi.
You can go to the park front gate and hike to the climbs, but the rock face is not easy to find from the gates and the staff are not knowledgable. If it is your first time I suggest that you take the bus/taxi north, past the park gates (looking back over your shoulder the whole time so that you can see the rock face), get off the bus at the next stop and make the short hike through trails directly to the face. You should not drive more than 1 mile past the gate.
To get home follow this route in reverse.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for BaiWangShan:
We First Time 5.4 PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet, Grade V
This is a great first route for a beginner or a fun access route for advanced climbers. it is easy at the bottom but the top 20 feet will challenge a beginning climber, but not an advanced one....[more]Browse More Classics in International
This area is really run down and wasn't much to begin with. I was there October 2009 and the bolts/pitons are very suspect. If you are going to temp to use this area be sure to bring a long anchor line (40-60 ft) and run it to the old cable car poles. I would say this area is not worth going to. The first 30' are milled off and the climbing holds are in bad condition and placed more like a ladder than a route. Access is easiest from the north gate. There is a possibility for bouldering or toprope on a 20' wall if you take the trail to the west of the old climbing area (continue up the road to the large dam instead of taking the trail to the left).
I'll agree with Stephen, it ain't the best, but it sure is the closest. And yeah, this is a top-rope ONLY area.
This place gets visits b/c most climbing in BJ requires a full day commitment, but BaiWang can be a spot for a quick afternoon of climbing when you just want to leave the city for an afternoon.