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Bailing on sport route
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By Trent Bradford
May 13, 2010
Swinging Bridge over the San Juan River

Darren B. wrote:
That's what I thought at first, too, but if we've got only one rope, then the 70m isn't long enough for me to rap back down, right? db


Ok, I'm the one missing something. How were you planning to get both of you down if your second did reach the top? Was it a walk-off?


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By Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
May 13, 2010
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of Twist of Fate, Oak Creek Canyon. <br /> <br />photo: Blake McCord

Darren B. wrote:
That's what I thought at first, too, but if we've got only one rope, then the 70m isn't long enough for me to rap back down, right? db

oh.


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By Phill T
May 13, 2010

Darren B. wrote:
Another question to add to the mix... If I've led a climb that my second is unable to get up, which hasn't happened but I thought it'd be good to know what to do just in case, would the following solution be appropriate? Have the second tie in to the closest bolt. I'd then pull the rope up and run it through the belay anchors and back down to the second. The second would then lower me down, cleaning gear as I go until I reached either the bottom of the climb or the next belay anchors. From there I'd tie off and lower him down, and then repeat that as necessary to get down. I should add that when I was pondering this situation, I was at the belay anchors at the top of a 150' pitch with a 70 m rope. It seems like I might be missing something vitally important in this setup.


hope your second knows how to prussic, or you build a 3 or 5/1 pulley and yard his ass up.


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By Woodchuck ATC
May 13, 2010
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

my idea of an 'old' bail biner is not a crusty rusty mess of aluminum as some seem to imply that the climber intends to leave. I'm talking about using a good biner, just one that isn't in my 'top 20' for lead climbs anymore. Still good, but not an expensive wire half of a quickdraw. Seems suitable enough. And maybe you can snag it back the very next day if you do better.


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By Darren B.
From Asheville, NC
May 13, 2010
Scenic view from the top of the second pitch.

My second brought a second rope up with him, and he was able to climb up to me at the top of that pitch, at which point, we simply repelled down to the bottom of that pitch...

...but, we were wondering what we'd have done if we hadn't had that second rope with us and/or if he hadn't been able to make it up to me.


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By Jason Killgore
From boulder, co
May 13, 2010

lower second back to belay/ground. Have second tie other rope to lead line. Rap and clean. Obviously cant pull know through gear, so probably need to lower your end to the second. This might be hard on a traversy or overhanging multipitch.


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By randy88fj62
Jun 2, 2010
Thunderbolt Peak in the Palisades

For my canyoneering anchors we use stainless steel quicklinks since most of our anchors are left in canyons. They cost us $2 per piece.

As others have said, leaving a quicklink can suck. Your other option costs $4.75 for an Oval carabiner.
www.omegapac.com/product221.html


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By Billy Young
From Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 3, 2011
Me

This thread has been long since abandoned from the look of it but I like to write, and I'm bored.

I think it all depends on the location/rating/person who left the quick link.

Say you are climbing somewhere people climb a lot. It's not going to get rusted as long as one of the many people climbing in the time it takes to rust isn't lazy and takes it off.

I mean, say you are new and used to lead climbing a 5.7 and then one day you try a 5.9 lead and get in over your head. Is removing a quick link really going to be a huge issue for most climbers leading a 5.9?

OR, Clip the draw under the link and remove it when you are being lowered/rapping down.

I'm new to climbing so I am certainly no voice of wisdom. It just seems like giving up on a sport climb is the last possible option, and there is usually a reason that someone would choose to do it. It's better to leave a quick link and possibly save yourself/someone else injury or worse because you are continuing something you are not comfortable with.

BUT, then again.. It's better to not try something you probably can't do in the first place.

SO, I guess it ends pretty much like most discussions seem to; there's always another underlying reason.


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