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Routes in Center Wall
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Bahama Mama T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Caver's Nightmare T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Chunky Tuna T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Slam Bam Thank-You Ma'am T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Voodoo Potato Chips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Zig Zag T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,941 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Superclimber on Jan 21, 2014 |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell |
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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset
Details
Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/…
830-685-3636
Description
Start on the low angle 4th class hand crack and follow it up to the head wall. Move right and up the shallow awkward dihedral. Continue up the dihedral to the huge ledge and move right to find a hand crack that starts out near vertical and quickly becomes low angle. Continue to the top. This is a really fun climb. The novice leader will need to take rope drag and possible pendulums (for the second) into consideration. It could easily be broken into 2 pitches if needed to help with rope drag and to protect to the second.
Location
The Easiest access is from News Wall/Sweat area. From below Sweat walk to the climbers right and follow the dome past Chunky Tuna, Slippery When Sweat, and a low angle vegetated fist/hand crack that leads to the entrance of Caver's Nightmare. Continue until you come to the next 4th class hand crack. In other words: from Sweat walk until you come to the second obvious low angle splitter crack and start climbing.
It can also be accessed from the Lost Wall/Center Wall trail. But this approach requires some mild bushwhacking.
It can also be accessed from the Lost Wall/Center Wall trail. But this approach requires some mild bushwhacking.
Protection
A standard rack with cams up to maybe a BD #3 should be adequate. Take enough gear to build an anchor at the top and some long slings. There are no top anchors, bolts, or fixed protection of any kind. There is a boulder and crack back about 20' from the edge after you top out that can be used as a top anchor. To descend follow the upper back side trail to the skiers right and locate the thick Metolius rap bolts hidden in the alcove above News Wall. A 60 meter rope will make it from these anchors. However, a 60 Meter rope will NOT make it from the near by Proc Wall anchors. Make sure you have the right anchors. The News Wall rap bolts are intended as a designated rap station, not for top roping or occupying all day with a fixed line.
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