Bagatelle 

the note worthy first solo was by mike mccarron

Hmm.. Best Hard route in Wisconsin??? Very possible, but I'd say it would be a tough call between Bagatelle and Whiskey A go-go at Petenwell Rock...Very sweet 12D/13A

Not to quibble over ratings, but I talked to the first ascentionist, and he believes Whiskey a Go Go deserves a solid 5.13a rating. Apparently those who have downgraded the climb only did so after a protracted effort on it. Onsight the thing, then you can downgrade it if you wish.

No way this is 13a. I was on a roadtrip and stopped here for a break from driving and both my partner and I flashed the thing - and I've never onsighted harder than 12c. I had heard Devil's Lake was supposed to have soft ratings, but 13a would be softer than a baby's ass. On lead, maybe, but c'mon, it's just a toprope (but mad props to whoever led the thing).

I can't speak for the route, as I wouldn't know, but I can tell you this. Devil's Lake does have very soft ratings. I'm not a great climber, as I struggle with 5.7s at Devil's Lake. Still, while struggling with 5.7s at Devil's Lake, I was able to do 5.9s on better rock. Better meaning rock with friction. I've done 5.9s in CO, CA, and SD to name a few and I didn't struggle with those 5.9s as much as I do with the 5.7s at Devil's Lake. What I do know, is that the difference between 12c and 13a is practically nothing. Another thing I know is that rating isn't an exact science. As a matter of fact, it isn't a science at all. Some people may think that a 11d was really hard, while others feel it was really easy.

To clarify: I wrote that Whiskey a Go Go is 13a, not that Bagatelle is 13a. I think that the 5.12c/d (top-rope) rating is pretty accurate for Bagatelle. On lead, most would consider any rating beyond "hard and very scary" irrelevant. Stephen, there is a huge HUGE difference between 12c and 13a. Consider the difference between Ceasarian Tower (5.12c) and Ice (5.13a+). On Ceasarian, one can actually see the holds.

I always believed that Bagatelle's split c/d rating pertained to the peculiarities of the upper crux. If you are tall enough, you can lever very high off a right sidepull. This allows you to throw to the jug, thereby bypassing the crux sloper hold and making the move 12c. If you are shorter, say about my height (5'10" on a day when my head is held high), you have to use the sloper with your left hand, and cross with your right hand to the jug. This forces you to put almost all of your weight on the sloper, a 5.12d effort because we all know how "good" DL slopers can be.

Some say that the split rating depends upon whether or not you use the right corner with your right hand to fascillitate stepping off the ground. This is trully bunk as there has been a great deal of "ewosion" since the first ascent, and we all know that F10c equates exactly to 5.12c/d.

Ah, yes, Jay. However, that is a comparison between two routes. I have sat and watched, in awe, as friends of mine climb the upper 12's and 13's. They say there isn't much difference at all. Only when rock type is different. I could see the holds equally as well. They were all very, very small.

Like I said, it's all a matter of opinion, really.

Thanks, Jay!

just some historical info, pete,s acsent probaly was the hardest route in the states at the time.when tommy led this he supposedly used ground down rurps for pro and maybe some knifeblades. his belayer bill russell supposedly dragged a mattress up there as well,and probably some cheap swill too.mike mcarren,s solo is one of the proudest ascents at dl.

Bagatelle was a standard-setting climb when Cleveland did the FA. Check out where this climb (and others at DL) reside in the spectrum of hard rock climbs:

www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/hard.htm

Holy crap! I was already impressed by the legend of Pete Cleveland, but after looking at the website Jay mentioned I'm even more in awe. Very cool that Pete put Devil's Lake in the hard climb history books!

I think Pete Clevelands 1965 onsight lead of Son Of A Great Chimney is the most impressive thing done at DL. Every good climber who spends any time at DL should lead that route. Pretty cool!

Jason
I would like to chat at some point on the gear you used to lead it! What a tour de force!.....your ticking them all! It's a small and twisted club!
congrats
Dave G

Jason
With out pins it is 5.12DX for sure!

Dave G

Hey all -

How does this thing start? Do you climb up the middle of the face?

I prefer the start straight up off the eroded ground. It may add another cruxy move, but I don't think it's harder than .12d, at least by DL standards. And of the three people I've seen on this route (Dillon Colon, Erol, and myself), we all did the ground start.

Getting off of the ground was quite possibly the hardest individual move of the whole route for me, but it goes.

BETA ALERT: My method was to get two small crimps around head height, and a crotch-splitting high step with the right foot on the obvious flat hold, pull statically off the ground onto that, and stab up right to a good hold. This move was low-percentage, but since it's the first move falling off of it isn't nearly as heartbreaking as falling off up higher.

So does this start on the arete or not?

Hey Tony, I believe most would say the arete is off. I know of several climbers who used a high left foot and some form of weird pinch with the thumb inverted with the left hand to start. I watched Dylan (previous comment) get a really high right foot and use the crimps to start. I would second that the hardest move on the climb is getting off the ground. I have yet to accomplish it.

The start as I know it starts on the right side of the face under the low roof.